adjusting car attitude

How difficult is it to adjust the attitude of a 911? My car seems to be higher in the front than in the rear. I have read the portions in the workshop manuals for adjusting, but I was wondering if anyone has suggestions.

The reason I ask, is that my rear tires are slightly inside the wheel wells. I have determined that my car's current attitude is not within specs. With the wider tires in the rear and the Carrera flares I think if I could raised the rear of the car slightly I would have exactly the look I'm looking for.

Any special tools required? Since the car is 26 years old is it possible that I will need to replace rear suspension parts? Could new shocks remedy my problem?

I want to get input before I start this if it's going to be major. My skill level is described below by my successful projects.

minor electrical repairs
replaced clutch cable
replaced oil tank
replaced oil seal on transaxle
replacing ignition switch

Am I ready for the attitude adjustment. (not the kind involving beer!)

Mark

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I'd first make sure how off it is. According to the Porsche performance handbook, the front fender lip at it's highest point is supposed to be one half inch above the rear fender lip.

Keith

1976 930

Mark,

Actually, going from 'conventional' hydraulic shocks to Bilstein's in the rear does raise the ride height about 1" ... so I have heard, and seen reported in Road & Track.

You sound ready to tackle the suspension ... moving the swing-arm plate one 'tooth' or notch down on the torsion bar ... so the swing-arm hangs about 9 degrees lower, also raises the rear end about 1-1.5" as well. But, before making ant 'adjustments, I would recommend checking the suspension settings, and comparing them with the 'old' factory settings (those NOT meant for USA bumper-height law compliance) ... Front torsion bar rear center below axle center -- 108 mm +/- 5 mm. Rear torsion bar center above rear wheel center 12 mm +/- 5 mm.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Yes, carefully measure things and compare with standard (not the extra-high specs used during part of the '70s) specs.

It seems strange that a shock might change ride height. Shocks normally do nothing to support the car's weight. They simply keep the suspension parts from moving up and down too quickly. But those clever Germans may have innovated. You know how they are.

Hey, I heard the new, larger Saturn was engineered in Germany.

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'83 SC

Warren, Can I lower the swing arm plate one tooth without dissambling the entire rear axle? I am going to check everything before I start but lowering the swing arm sounds like what I need to do.

The manual is vague in describing how to get the tension/compression off of the rear assembly so that adjustsment can be made.

Is it as simple as removing the swing arm cover, torsion bar cover, and then removing the swing arm at the wheel assembly, followed by removing the torsion bar cover and adjusting the swing arm down one notch?

Also where do I put the jack stand since I will be working on the torsion bar cover?

Any help would be appreciated.

Mark

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You put the jack stands under the torsion bar tubes just 'inboard' of the end castings that the swing-arm bushings reside in.

The swing arms have to be unbolted from the hub and semi-trailing arm, but just mark the position with a light spray of contrasting paint, to be able to put them back in the same relationship ... and a four wheel alignment will be needed after you finish.

To release the 'preload' on the suspension after removing the torsion bar end covers, I cCAREFULLY jack up one side with a wooden block on the floor jack platter, locating it under the swing arm end, then lightly prying on the swing arm with a curved tire iron to move it out/off the torsion-bar splines approximately 3/8" -- just enough to 'clear' the end-casting when you release the floor jack, VERY SLOWLY, and let that side settle onto the jack stand.

My guess is the manuals are vague about adjusting the rear suspension ... because the writers haven't done it and really don't have a clue where to start!!!

Once you have the tension on the torsion bar and swing arm released, I would recommend taking the swing arm completely off, after marking the declination angle on the bodywork with a grease pencil for reference! Be sure to clean the splined socket in the swing arm, and the torsion bar splines, too, then apply anti-sieze compound.

ALL of the fasteners removed in this adjustment operation should be cleaned thoroughly and have anti-sieze compound applied to the threads. Hopefully, you will not encounter any that are rusted tight!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 07-02-2000).]

Warren, I guess I'm missing something. If the torsion bar is in torsion counterclockwise (is that right?)that would mean the swing arm is pushing the wheel assembly clockwise/down. To release the torsion it seems I would need to allow the swing arm to rotate down/clockwise before I can remove it.

If the bar was in torsion clockwise that would push the wheel assembly up. I'm sorry for the confusion but I am trying to viualize the repair first.

Does the shock push the assembly down and the swing arm in concert with the torsion arm oppose this action?

Please help if you can. Thanks Mark



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