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Alan L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: New Zealand
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915 g/box

I'm using Randys thread, and progressing OK so far.
But Randy did not break down the 3-4 shaft which I intend to replace the synchros on.
Is there a trick to removing that nut. It has an indent in it on its sleeve. And the only thing I can think of is drilling it out.
Thanks
Alan

Old 10-13-2006, 05:02 PM
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Location: London Ont Canada
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If it,s the nut I think you mean.I used an old clutch disc clamped in a vise to hold one end and a deep socket and bar to undo the nut.Force will straighten the indented part. A new nut should be used upon reassembly and a chisel or punch to lock it into the indent after tightening.
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1980 911 SC 3.6 coupe sold
1995 993 coupe
1966 Mustang Shelby clone
1964 Corvair Spyder Turbo gone
2012 Boss 302
Old 10-13-2006, 06:48 PM
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So, it sounds like drilling the indent out may be useful - reduce the force required, given I am supposed to use a new nut.
The input shaft is about a foot long. Do they make sockets that deep?
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 10-13-2006, 08:25 PM
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If it,s that long I must have used a wrench. I rebuilt a 915 about 3 years ago when I installed my 3.6.so memory isn,t perfect on which shaft we are talking about. You don,t need to drill (you might nick the shaft)but you could perhaps pry it up a bit with a narrow chisel or screwdriver before turning.
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1980 911 SC 3.6 coupe sold
1995 993 coupe
1966 Mustang Shelby clone
1964 Corvair Spyder Turbo gone
2012 Boss 302
Old 10-13-2006, 10:19 PM
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It's not that hard to cut a socket in half, and weld a pipe between the two halves. Voila... factory special tool.

Old 10-14-2006, 07:52 AM
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