The originals are silicone rubber reinforced with what seems like fiberglass cloth imbedded. They were hand layed for sure over a mold. Maybe even a two piece mold.

I believe that was exactly how they were made. They are definitely not one piece vacuum formed.

Just out of curiousity what peak pressures do each of the boots see?

The large intake boot over the Air sensor sees no boost. Maybe some little vacuum but I doubt much. That is the large boot.

The throttle body boot sees whatever boost you are running. So 5-10psi. I've blown mine off the TB once or twice as the clamping lip is pretty worn out.

Blow it off it gets your attention...

I installed the BAE kits working for Steve Collons of Automotive Engineering in Hawaii, in the late 70's early 80's. Word to the wise.
BAE kits will pull a 2.7 apart in short order! Only 3.0's w/8.5 cr. [80-83sc w/oem cr.] should be attempted. preferbibly shiming the cly's .040 to lower cr. to 8.0, booost injector, water injection, timming retard under boost sys., high octane fuel, etc. OR Engine damage WILL result!
You have been warned!

Oh boy here we go.. Most that have answered are running some sort of this set up with a few that are helping with the process behind the seens. thanks to all that are. I think maybe the best answer for the small boot was a standard silicone boot(90 elbow) I use this on my set up and it works well and just to be clear the 80-83 scs come with 9.3-1 ask me how I know!!!!!

My goal is 2 fold,

1st complete my kits that I have
2nd provide boots for all the guys and gals wanted extra replacement boots for there current set up..

Ic may come later but we would all have to choose one we all felt comfortable and do you see that happening??

not that much interest ha?? 2-3 people and thats it??

Well, I wonder if there is a better way? $200 for a rubber part? I realize it is THE part that will bridge a gap, but with all the expertise out there, can't we get it lower? What about fabing a welded sheat metal part that can clamp on it with a v type clamp on it? And, what about making the part out of vulcanizing rubber, it goes on in layers so it's easy to layer in a sheat of fiber and then heat it up dso it's solid. This is probably how they made the origional.
Why is this part so difficult? I may be missing something.
The origional quattro audi used a part called the iglu that is what we need. It was only a cast aluminum boot. It could be duplicated in sheet metal and welded up. After all, it's not under boost. It could even have some tabs on it so it could simply be bolted on.
If I am way off base, I appologize, but I don't see why this part needs to be the major hold up.

Hi Dick, stock pistons, 5psi, twin plug, stock CIS (with 930 WUR) does just fine. It is a very happy setup, and runs 180F. Your mileage may vary, lol.

And mb911, count me in. I'm with tsuter, the boots need to match.

Thanks,
Doug

I'd always thought that a good way to do these would be to make a mold and make most of the boot out of fiberglass or wet laid CF (for a cool look) and just use small commercially available nitrile boots for the ends. Just my .02 from a Pelican deserter ;)

Because to fab up one out of metal would take many hours more and you guys would pay a bunch more for a part not as nice as the silicone rubber.. You guys are not realizing that time is money unless you do it your self you have to charge something for your time right??

oh and to get it cheaper I need a bunch of people say 15 confirmed would drop the price to probably less the 200 for both boots

When you put into perspective, 200 is not crazy. And it is the part that is not universal.

ok here are some quotes per unit to me but with more quatity we can push it down

First set of 8 large boots will cost $182.60 each

First set of 8 small boots will cost $169.81 each



I got the information for you. According to our Engineering Department, the
parts will be made with Nomex Reinforced, (-65 + 500F), also the PSI is 60.
Ther Colors available are Blue, Black and Red, with the inside Brick Red.

let me know if folks are really serious

Ben, if you need to make the quota, put me in for a pair of black, although the red would match my shroud better.

Ben, I'll take set in black, for sure.
Thanks for the research.
Rick

well to bump this. I must let you all know allot of interest but no one stepped up to the plate to actually get a set coming. if you are serious Pm me or email me at ben@mkexhaust.com. otherwise We will just let this die like so many want it to:p

Mr. Dick Shift, what you posted is not correct. Many of us have proven that statement wrong over and over.
You installed them? Cool, that means you know how to install them. we run them, that means we know what they will and won't do to our engines.
I would venture to say that is no source of experience or information on BAE turbo kits and 911s than can be found that can match up to this board.


My completely stock SC has 9.3 to one CR and I have run it hard on 91 octane gasoline with stock timing settings and have had no problems. I even pulled the engine apart last year to replace the dilavar head studs and found absolutely no signs of damage, pinging, etc.

Lots of others here can also attest that your statement is a bit pessimistic.

l think it`s not unreasonable to predict problems with a boosted 2.7 ...Those engines run hot even without boost and we all know of the stud issues. Adding boost to a NA engine can cause all kinds of terminal problems and some engines just can`t take it. lf the boosted engine is in need of service and you bolt on a turbo yo`ll have problems,plain and simple.Boost adds heat,heat adds wear,wear causes breakdowns.