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-   -   Removing G50 Input Shaft Seal (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/309474-removing-g50-input-shaft-seal.html)

JPJIII 10-13-2006 10:25 AM

Removing G50 Input Shaft Seal
 
I'm deep into the 'while you're in there' stuff and removing the input shaft seal on my '89 Carerra's G50 has devolved from project status to approaching nightmare status! I've searched the site and thanks to the details found there getting the collar off was pretty easy. Other than using the short handle seal remover that was recommended and which I now have are there any other suggestions, solutions, incantations or spells that I can use to get this thing out and get on with the new seal and collar, new cross shaft and release fork? I'll consider most anything short of a 1lb. block of TNT and dynamic disassembly.

John

kepperly 10-13-2006 11:13 AM

Gently heat cycle the metal around the seal. when the houseing is warm spray around the seal with PB blaster.Cycle this heat
cooling a couple of times.

Keith Epperly
87 slant nose turbo look carrera cabriolet

JPJIII 10-13-2006 11:44 AM

Hmmm, the obvious solution is one that I'd not thought of. Thanks. I'm not familiar with PB blaster. Is that a 'liquid wrench' type product? I'd assume it or a similar snake oil needs to be non-flammible to avoid unpleasant consequences in putting a flame against the case?

John

kepperly 10-13-2006 01:28 PM

EVERYONE SHOULD RUN TO PEP BOYS AND BUY SOME PB BLASTER
BEFORE TRYING TOO REMOVE ANY PART THATS BEEN ON THE CAR FOR A LONG TERM.

KEITH EPPERLY
87 SLANT NOSE TURBO LOOK CARRERA CABRIOLET

jevvy 10-14-2006 01:42 AM

I just prized the old seal out with a small pointy screwdriver, the input shaft is quite hard to I was sure that if I slipped I would hit that and not the case with the point of the screwdriver.

You need to be carfull pushing the new one into place - the first one I fitted with 1 tap too many and it ended up sliding inside the case and I have to pull the diff to cut it off the input shaft:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1160818463.jpg

I think I used the guide tube & longer bolts(is this what you are calling the collar) to press the second seal into place and this seemed to be a much better technique that just tapping it in with a mag-light torch tube!


Good luck.

JPJIII 10-16-2006 05:54 AM

Thanks for the update. Unfortunately I was away from the computer and didn't get your suggestion until this morning (Monday). I got the @#$*($ seal out over the weekend using the small screwdriver technique. I tried heating the case with my MAPP tourch as well so all in all it got out without excessive damage to the bore of the case. I purchased a custom seal installation tool from the Ace Hardware store. It was advertised as a PVC tail pipe for a sink drain however I knew they'd purpose built that to install the seal:>)

I saw on a different posting that it was possible to push the seal in too far and wanted to avoid that problem. I can't say I feel your pain but that looks very messy!

Under the catagory of checking the work area carefully. I spent a good 45 minutes trying to figure out where an odd cup shaped piece of plastic would go between the transmission and body. I initially thought it part of a seal between the body and the transmission shifter. Turns out it was the ashtray insert for my wife's Miata which fell off a shelf while I was working on the Porsche.

Any tips or suggestions for the re-install of the enigne/transaxel? I'm thinking getting the shifter connected back to the tranny will be....an issue.

Thanks


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