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RUST: This sucks. Please advise









A new pan section and gas tank support are on the way. This sucks.

A few questions.

If i unbolt the 3 bolts what do i have to unbolt to get the suspension out of the way? (too lazy to crawl under there and look at 1am)

what should i measure off of to relocate the 3 bolt mounts on the new pan?


the basic process goes... ???

1. measure where 3 bolt mounts currently are located
2. remove suspension
3 drill spot-welds and cut old pan out...
4. trim\refit new pan to line up where old one was
5.tack in place
6. bolt up suspension
7. weld in place
8. fit gas tank support with gas tank in place so everything fits.
9. weld in gas tank support
10. make new battery box

Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. I don't have the $$ to pay a shop to do this!

Anyone have a list of supply's i can pick up ahead of time that I will need? A weld thu primer, por-15 ext....?

Sorry for my dumb questions... i have a few books to read before my Restoration design pieces get here. I want to do this as "right" as i can in my little garage.

-Nick

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Old 10-12-2006, 12:11 AM
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Nick, search for DarrylD's post. He just put up pics of major work he has done that looks very similar to what you are facing. I am sure he and others can help you through the project.

Don't let it discourage you. If you have some welding skills you can do this.
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Old 10-12-2006, 02:32 AM
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The pans he is doing here is interior floor pans but I think he can help you still.

The moment of TRUTH!
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Old 10-12-2006, 02:36 AM
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Fishcop also just posted a nicely-done front replace/restoration.
That front cross piece is available from http://www.restoration-design.com, though it's been said that they are hard to get ahold of sometimes.
Old 10-12-2006, 05:52 AM
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After having done this recently I have a suggestion, which I did not think of untill after I removed the old pan. Take two pieces of bar stock and bolt them up to the cross-member and pan with them crossing at the middle. Then weld the bars togeather at the intersection. This will create a template for the new pan to check your alignment. I got my pan/gas tank support at Stoddards shipping was fast and the parts were good.
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Old 10-12-2006, 10:16 AM
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Umm well my car is actually in the process of this right now. The only thing is it has been waiting 3 months for pans from Restoration design. I have called every week without a return phone call. Just a little FYI.
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:46 AM
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im also in the same process and ordered my pan 8 weeks ago and am still waiting to hear from restoration design. please keep posting pics and let us know how it goes
Old 10-12-2006, 11:58 AM
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Nick, I just had this done to my '86 Carrera...replaced front panel with gas tank support. Got the parts from Restoration Design ...around $200. About $3,000 for the welding and body alignment. Without an alignment shop you will not be able to restore the factory tolerances.

Look at my pictures under "Rust Repair".
Old 10-12-2006, 12:04 PM
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Tom, it took me a month to get the front panel but it was worth it since the part is more durable, thicker, and is much better than patching. I can't see how you could do this in your garage without special alignment equipment. Also a TIG welder to reduce warping.

I had the shop seam weld the panel to improve front stability and reduce twisting.

Last edited by DG624; 10-12-2006 at 12:44 PM..
Old 10-12-2006, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
http://www.restoration-design.com,
I ordered the sheet metal yesterday and they said it would be here in a week! (but im not counting on it)



Quote:
Take two pieces of bar stock and bolt them up to the cross-member and pan with them crossing at the middle. Then weld the bars together at the intersection. This will create a template for the new pan to check your alignment
Good idea. I can make a that template and then cut around it.


Quote:
3,000 for the welding and body alignment
The fact of the matter is.. i cant dump 3k on a job.

Im sure i can get it pretty dam close and if i take my time with the MIG and let things cool. It cant get any worse then it is now.
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Old 10-12-2006, 02:31 PM
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I was told that MIG tends to warp but if you just do the spot weld it may be OK. I am not a welder and by the time I buy all the necessary equipment and learn how to do it...I figure I am saving by having an expert do the work. I also had some body straighting because of a minor front end bump.

DId you check out the job Darryl was doing? Very nice. We should hire Darryl to circulate arround the country fixing rust.
Old 10-12-2006, 02:42 PM
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MIG welding doesn't warp the area as bad as people think. Do a search and you'll find plenty of threads on MIG welding and rust repair. Here's a few pics to give you an idea of how it goes.
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Old 10-12-2006, 04:23 PM
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Duke, looks like alot of work how hard is it to get a solid weld...does dirt and grease cause problems and does it take longer? I guess the more expensive welding machines use more electricity and are more expensive.
Old 10-12-2006, 05:04 PM
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This is a lot of work. If I had to do this again and had access to someone that i trusted to do the work, Id gladly pay them $3k to do it. Your pan actually doesn't look terrible. The lateral tank supports look pretty solid so a new pan should fit in nicely.

If you are going to do this yourself, you must get good measurements. Don't forget the diagonals between the front and rear pickup points. Bolt the suspension to the new pan while fitting, confirm the measurements, and tack it in place. Once the pan is tacked in, unhook and the suspension again and finish the welding.

Last edited by Shuie; 10-12-2006 at 07:52 PM..
Old 10-12-2006, 07:49 PM
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A MIG is fine for this kind of thing, just tack around the perimeter, then after it's cool, go back and do it again, only this time staggered...just keep making short beads until it's all done.

I actually look *FORWARD* to the 1st time I replace a suspension pan in my own car. Fortunately/unfortunately, my '70 doesn't need it ...LOL
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Old 10-13-2006, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
If you are going to do this yourself, you must get good measurements
Thats the plan.... but im not sure where to mesure from.. and what dimensions i need to take! any pointers? thanks for all the help!
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Old 10-13-2006, 02:32 AM
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"RUST: This sucks"

Couldn't say it better myself. I feel your pain mate. My 81 911sc had a major repair done to it. I had to cut open the left rear guard and half the length of the sill and it was riddled with rust EVERYWHERE. I can't say anymore as it's depressing.

DO NOT go looking for rust EVER cos you will always find it on the old 911's.

For the price you have to pay for any 911 you don't expect to have to start cutting up the beautiful curves of your baby to fix rust. I paid huge dollars for my sc and then it fails it's MOT or what ever you guys call it over there because of rust. I could of died that day, it was one of the worst days of my life. Fortunately I have a 964 now which is a minter and rust is not an issue on this car (I have gone over it with a magnifying glass and torch) . Rust is out to haunt you with alot of the earlier 911s and any Porsche for that matter which is a shame because they are such awesome and still very expensive cars. Yes RUST DOES SUCK mate!! sniff sniff. Kill that rust and post pics when she looks all beautiful and rust free again. Good Luck.
Old 10-13-2006, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by air-cool-me
Thats the plan.... but im not sure where to mesure from.. and what dimensions i need to take! any pointers? thanks for all the help!
Get the diagonal measurements between the bolts at the front and rear pickup points and use the a-arms as a jig while you tack the pan in place. Do a search, also. This job has been documented here at least a dozen times.
Old 10-13-2006, 05:18 AM
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Nick, if you need help get ahold of me. I've got a friend in Chino that welded a new back seat into my SWB, and you can take measurements from my car if need be. Jay has my number.

-Dave.
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Old 10-13-2006, 08:26 AM
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thanks. I will hunt you down if i need you. I think i will be using jay's MIG for this project.

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Old 10-13-2006, 04:06 PM
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