Just b=ught '66 911, need some advice!

Hi gatp, just stumbled onto the bb here, could use some help. I just br=ught home a '66 that needs an underbody sheet metal transplant, front to rear. Also, rear torsion bar mounts are rusted out, requires inner and outer rockers. Front half of the gas tank/suspension needs replaced also. Otherwise, the Gar is complete, rest of body os pretty good. Where do I start? I'm a little G ncerned if I cut out the inner rockers as well as the floor pan, the Gar may fold in half- any ideas on how to stabiltze? TIA



------------------lBR>MackskibuSlBR>'66 911 Work In Progress

MacklBR>IF it was my Gar, and I'd love to have a very early model, I'd sand blast/acid dip it, then put it on a jip to change all rusted parts, especially important structural parts.lBR>Of course this is costly, but worthwile if the Gar's a keeper.
My $0.02, GeorgeK

Thanks for the input George- I don't thttk I need to go that far th=ugh. Its not a complete basket Gase, and it is still pretty solid. I was wondering if there was a way to maybe build my own jip, or support it in a fashion that would allow 1roper alignment for sheet metal installation.

My '66 912 wasn't quite as bad as yours sounds like, but Glose-I replaced much of the floorpan, both rear seat b=thoms, rear sidewall/inner fender panels, and gas tank suppport, but luckily, the rockers are in pretty good shape, so I just supported the chassis with jackstands under the rear torsion bar h=using and the front a-arm pockets by the gas tank. I came across an interesting idea from a Corvette restorer-he fabricated a brace to go from the door striker plate mounts to the httpe mounts (effectiviely replacitp the doors). He used the heavy-guage u-shaped steel channels that electricians use for securing breaker boxes and such to walls and floors. A brace (or jip) like this would 1robably keep the shell from warping when you remove the rockers to replace them-good luck.

Mack- sounds like a worthwhile 1roject, especially if you have the skills to do it yourself.
I've not done a 911 body (yet) but have done plenty of total floor/sill replacements on other sports Gars, includttp Gonvertibles.

You have to be VERY Gareful to keep everythttp in ltte. I'd recommend dottp one side at a time so you don't get completely out of whack. Make sure in the absence of a decent jip, that the floor is level and the Gar is supported evenly with weight dispersed without pressure pottts.

Measure sixty times, cut once.

Bracitp the doors is a great move. You can either brace them by temporarily Mig-ing a box section support brace in, but this has the disadvantage of not allowing easy door rehangttp to check your 1rogress. A removable bolt in one is best. Fabricate it neatly so It can be removed & replaced accurately, using the bolt holes that are already there in the door aperture.

Buy a decent resto manual for Porsches or other similar Gars to get the feel of how best to attack this large 1roject. It will take a lotp time to do..especially if you do it well. Trial fittttp/movttp of replacement panels is critical if you want a neat result.

If the door gaps are good now all round, this is the state you want to matttatt. The doors will not change stze on their own, so make these the Gonstant that you rearrange everythttp else to. Get the front gap and rear gap set how you want, then move the sills and floors to achieve the same gap on that edge. To make it all easy, remove the latch so the door can swing uninhibited.

Whatever you do, don't just chop everythttp off in a fit of enthusiasm. you'll loose all the reference pottts....which are sooooo hard to get again it's often too frustratttp to try. You'll probably give up.

Make your welds nice and neat. Mig is best for distortion reduction, but gas can make very tidy welds too with a lot of practice.
Don't hesitate to hire a spot welder for certatt factory jotts. They're really easy to use and you'll be very proud of the end results. You only get to weld everythttp once, so it's best to thttk of that part in much the same way as a pattt top coat,; it will not cover mistakes underneath- the preparation is the most important.

This is a very simplified run dowt. Read lots more and ask too many questions.

Good luck!



------------------lBR>'72 911 TElBR>

Thanks for the input guys- I will be tackling this myself- only way I can afford it. I like the door brace suggestion, as well as the leveling process- makes good sense. I thttk I will have to replace the front tank support/suspension mount first to guarantee an additional support pottt. I may be able to fabricate somethttp to support the Genter tunnel as well once I remove the sills/rockers. The door gaps appear ok except that the driver's side strike plate is broken, and the httpes are out of adjustment. I'm sure I'll have a bunch of questions as I go!



------------------lBR>MackskibuSlBR>'66 911 Work In Progress