Putting Engine / Transmission together

I was reading an earlier post today, labelled "Clutch Wisdom"

When I got to the part where Superman said "I'm getting a sinking feeling", funny thing was, so was I. I wish I had read this post last week.

I just received a rebuilt 915/63 transmission for my '80 911SC and put it on last weekend. I was having problems getting the clutch cable aligned and when I tried to put the car in gear, when it was running, with the pedal depressed, I couldn't. At first, I thought it was the cable adjustment, but then after reading the past post, I think I did the same thing superman did.

When I put the Engine and Tranny together, I made sure the fork was toward the center of the housing. This would mean that the fork would end up in front of the Throw Out Bearing, no? And then this would be wrong, no?

From the discussion, I am still a little confused on how to get the fork into that grove on the TOB while I am putting the engine onto the tranny?

Am I going to be able to remove the engine just enough to get my hand in there to place this fork into the groves on the TOB?

I am still impressed that I was able to take the engine and tranny out, and then back in, and the car still started. Without your quality input (and Warren's) on the bulletin board, I would not even have attempted it. Now I feel like one with my 911.


Thanks .. Ted
1980 911SC Targa
Pefferlaw, Ontario, Canada

Congratulations. I too was going to be intimidated by my car until I took her apart. She's mine now.

No, the release forks do not go 'behind' the release (throw-out) bearing. They engage the big groove on the outer edge of the bearing. This must be mated up as the engine and tranny are mated. There are holes in the tranny bell housing, apparently just for this purpose. You can see though these holes, whether the forks are mated properly.

Here comes more bad news. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the forks move toward the tranny. They "pull" the bearing (go figure - those Germans just have to do everything differently). When I had the forks installed incorrectly, I bent them by pressing on the clutch pedal. You may have also. One fork will bend in front of the other one, so they will not align properly. In other words, you may need a new release fork.

Well, you know some advisors insist that this fork should be replaced anyway. I don't actually believe this since there was no wear and it is not a brittle part (bends but does not break). This procedure is not difficult, but it sounds like you will have an opportunity to practice your engine removal techniques one more time. It goes MUCH, MUCH more quickly the second time. I'll be at a lake, away from phones let alone computers, so I won't be of any use intil next Monday night at least, but I doubt you need anyone's help.

Sorry.

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'83 SC

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I work away from home, so the only time I get to drive / work on my car is the weekend. I'll take it apart and see what damage I've done, and then it'll take another week to get any necessary parts.

Live and learn.



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'80 911-SC Targa

FYI!

My '85 clutch fork, cracked!

For no other reason than wear (hot /cold hot /cold).

Clutch fork $85.00
Labor to the R&R engine and trans $300
Piece of mind.... priceless!

P.s. did my clutch & t.o bearing, too.

Nick