Longblock Mount. Oil Mess Clean-up Advice Please

SP2 · 10-23-2006, 11:16 PM

81SC: I have my engine pulled and am sort of down to the long block. But I need to get the engine ring adapter on and I need to mount it to my engine stand yoke. It is the ring adapter from PelicanParts. My problem is the heat exchanger crossover and the heat exchanger block my ring from sliding down. Also, how do I secure these long transmission bolts to the ring. I bought the hardware to bolt my Harbor Freight engine stand yoke to the ring.

The other photo show how removal of my shroud revealed alot of oil leakage from the thermostat seal, breather seal and pressure sender seal all over the top of the crankcase between the cylinder heads. How do I clean this up efficiently? I can't degrease and hose it down because of the intake manifolds. I am not doing a top-end rebuild or a complete rebuild. 96k engine didn't need it yet.

Thanks!

defcon65 · 10-24-2006, 06:22 AM

Try using a stiff fiber or nylon brush to remove the oil crud and vacuum it up dry. Thicker encrustations might require a little scraping with a plastic or hardwood scraper. Once you get it to almost bare metal use a little kerosene and a parts cleaner brush, catch the drips on an old cookie sheet, wipe down with paper towels. Any smaller parts that can be removed, soak them in kerosene and clean with a parts brush.
You could also use paint thinner but kerosene seems to work a little better on oil crud for some reason, IMO.
Hope that helps.

Regards,

MBEngineering · 10-24-2006, 07:05 AM

HI the engine "ring"/holder should fit over the exhaust as it has a cut out in the bottom of it , of not ease the exhaust down if the clearance is small to clear it and push up to the crankcase, then you will require some tube spacers on the studs and the gearbox bellhousing nuts to bolt it up (the spacers I use are the top shocker mounts of the 911 rear shocks and drilled out head nuts with some std washers for fine adjustment).

regards mike

john walker's workshop · 10-24-2006, 07:22 AM

cut a notch in the ring to clear the exhaust flange, or make the notch bigger if it already has one. removing the exhaust is the other option, but you WILL need an oxy/acetylene setup to heat each nut red before attempting to remove them, or the stud WILL break. easier to notch it.

SP2 · 10-24-2006, 08:06 AM

I just took a second look at things. I see the notch you are talking about. It still hits the exhaust cross over pipe, but looks like it would clear the heat exchanger flange. I should be able to remove the crossover pipe tonight. Mike, that is a brilliant idea about the rubber washers on top of the rear shocks. I recently changed out my shocks, and I saved the old washers, so hopefully that will work. Thanks Mikd and John.

MBEngineering · 10-24-2006, 09:56 AM

HI it's the TUBE on the top of the shocker that I use, NOT the RUBBER or the WASHER.

regards mike

john walker's workshop · 10-24-2006, 10:02 AM

or a big stack of washers.