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Silicon
What should I NOT use Dow Corning 111 on? I saw a recent thread warning that any silicon goop (like Armor-All) will render the surface unpaintable (the thread discussed painting dashes).
I may need to try to squeeze the aluminum strips into my windshield weatherstrip. The glass guy is still whining at me about this. I have heard that silicon grease is real slippery and wonder if this would be a good application. Perhaps glycerin would be better for this application. But I still want to know if there are any surfaces or applications where DC-11 should be avoided. ------------------ '83 SC |
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Superman,
It is not a good idea to try to put the aluminum trim on after the windsheld is in place... At best you'll bend/break it beyond repair; at worst you'll break the windshield. Ask me how... That thing is really blocked in its groove when the windshield is in place My $0.02, George |
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Okay, lets hear more comments. The Haynes manual suggests that the aluminum pieces go in AFTER the weather strip. And the cutaway diagram suggests that the strip would not be pinched by the windshield. Consistent with this, I am advised that the aluminum strip does nothing to seal or set the glass. Not disagreeing with you, George, just stimulating a discussion.
This may be important since the glass guy HATES Porsches but (supposedly) has done plenty of them. He did a good job, but gave up when he had trouble getting the strips in. Unfortunately, this is not good enough for me. The strips HAVE to go in whether or not they "do" anything. I'll be breaking this news to him after lunch today. ------------------ '83 SC |
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Superman,
There is NO WAY these strips go in the seal after the window's in place. They seem to have a function, tightening the seal in place. That doesnt prevent my car from leaking though... If your body shop decides to put the strip with the window in place, walk away, so you're in no way involved with the accident. Good luck, George |
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I had my windshield replaces last year and watched the guy do the whole job. He put the trim in after the windshield. It was awhile ago but I don't recall that he had any significant problems with it.
Gunter '82 SC Targa |
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Gunter, what you say is very surprising to me. Having put these trim strips in the windshield and the rear windows more than a few times, it really does seem to me to be IMPOSSIBLE to put the metal trim in after the windshield is in place. I don't know how your guy did it, but it certainly is not standard procedure. I've tried it before, and found it impossible, despite trying very hard! Your guy must have known a secret!
The standard way, and the way just about everyone does it, is to put the trim in before the window is put in place. Superman, that's why your guy can't get the trim back in. He hates doing porsches because he does not know how to do the job properly. [This message has been edited by Jim T (edited 08-01-2000).] |
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I replaced the front windshield seal on my '85. It took three tries.
Twice, trying to install the aluminum after the windshield was in place. Bent some parts of the aluminum. Once with the aluminum in place before the windshield was installed. I called Pelican Parts and they faxed me a description. Basically, mold the aluminum around the bare glass windshield. This was a HUGE help. Make sure there is no silicon or other non-OEM pieces on the glass, aluminum trim, rubber piece, or on/in cars frame. Install the rubber piece on the glass. Install the aluminum on the rubber. Use soap and NYLON string around 3/16" (1/8") pull around the rubber lip (using soap liberally). I had to be careful of my integrated radio antenna in the windshield. Hence, I had to start and stop the string around this antenna connector. Done. No leaks.... yet :-) Have Fun! |
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Addendum:
I suspect you can fairly easily pop out your front windshield if the aluminum trim is not in... I know I could. Some Porsche mechs said be very VERY careful. As the older the windshield gets, the more brittle they become. My point is, the glass is not being held in place when the aluminum trim is not installed. Basically, it appears to be a pressure fit, where the aluminum seperates the rubber gasket where in goes into there-by putting pressure against the glass and putting pressure on the car frame. Nick |
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I've heard soap and water is a good lubricant for putting the aluminum in after the glass. I guess my question is: WHY WOULD ANYONE DO THIS?
I just had new trim put in, front and back, with new pieces of glass going in. A different company did each piece of glass, and neither had any trouble whatsoever getting the trim in place. I've posted this elsewhere, but it cost me $170 for the front, including nice, clear, tinted aftermarket glass, and $45 for the back. I got new replacement trim from Doc 'n' Cy's in Indiana. I think there price was the best. Safelite, who did my front window, also sealed it up -- which isn't the early 911 way, I realize. But it doesn't leak a drop. ------------------ --------------- Jack Olsen 1973 911 T sunroof coupe http://members.rennlist.com/jackolsen/Jalopy.html |
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If you look in the early factory manual, there's a picture of a tech injecting "special sealant" into the windshield seal once it's in the car? My windshield guy didn't put any in, hope it doesn't leak.
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Thanx so much, folks. I had a good chat with the installer. He knows that I want the trim pieces on. But how do we do this? I'd love to hear suggestions when I return from my short vacation.
The Haynes book suggests that the trim goes on after the seal and windshield are in. Not only are these in, goop was used under the seal that the installer says will slowly dry. Not glazing and bedding compound, but not caulk or glue either. I forget what he called it. Anyway, please tell me a phone number or location of aonyone that had done tons of these. I want to speak, on the phone, with someone who has installed a hundred of these windshields. Thanx again! ------------------ '83 SC |
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