Engine drop with a G50
 

When you drop an engine with a G50 attached, do you only need to disconnect the input shaft coupler?, then the gearbox will allow for the lowering of the engine before seperation? I have done plenty of 915's, this is the first G50..
TIA:confused:

Yes. Careful with the needle bearings in removal/install.

Now go get-r-done. Good luck.

Regards,

Ok, Hyd clutch cylinder removed and stowed?
Thanks Bernard

That is fine. You shouldn't have to bleed it later though.

I did this once already, just want to verify what I forgot, its been a year. I diconnected the hyd clutch cylinder,tied it up, disconnected the input shaft, and removed the starter. ( I need my 915 back!)

Thanks again!

Andrew

shift coupler
speedo sending unit
ground strap
throttle linkage at trans. bellcrank
clutch slave cylinder
axle shafts
O2 sensor elec. connector in engine bay
fuel line connections in engine bay- top of filter and side of fuel rail
two DME connections and cyl head sensor connection in engine bay
vaccuum hose to back of air cleaner housing
vent hoses from case breather and throttle body rubber elbow
misc. electrical connections to alt. harness and throttle body area
cruise control cable
coil wire and harness connection to rear fuse panel
elec. plug to heater blower assist motor
brake booster vaccuum hose near rear of fuel rail, regulator

I think that's it?

Oh, don't forget to disconnect the battery......... :D

You don't need to remove the starter. Just disconnect the one big lead wire? That's one thing I can't recall from memory here at work.

G50 Drop
 

Kevin,
I am only dropping the engine, the gearbox will remain in car, so the shafts can stay attached.. Thanks for the additions..

:eek:

Good luck with your efforts to leave the trans in place. If you can't get at the cross-shaft easily to remove it? You will probably end up removing the trans. anyway. It's pretty tight confines with the trans. and engine up in the chassis- even lowered a good bit. Many struggle with the removal of the cross-shaft as it tends to get stuck in there. A makeshift puller or slide hammer is a necessity more often than not. Do a search to see a picture of a really ingenious puller some fella made with basic fasteners and common metal stock.

Plus the reinstallation of the shaft may be quite difficult as you try to align the clutch release fork. Let us know how it goes!

Agree with Kevin - two most difficult part of my drop were
#1 cross shaft release - I made a long threaded bolt that walked the shaft out -
#2 seperating the bell housing and engine block - a liitle time, dissipated clutch dust -

can't imagine still in the car.

Two things that I did differntly the 2nd time - wait to drop the engine and tranny a few inches before tackling the slave cylinder and alternator nut - it makes a WORLD of difference on the g-50 cars.

I see your points. Let me clarify. This is a Semi-Tube track car, that has a removeable rear firewall, which makes those concerns less of an impact. I will try and do A photo account of my efforts, and post to my website, link will follow.


Thanks for all your advise and help.
Andrew