Crushed Oil Lines

I am currently performing a full rebuild of my 3.2 Carrera engine and while in the process of checking other stuff, I noticed the rigid oil lines under the car to the fender mounted cooler have been crushed. Probably by some idiot try to lift the car under these points. I have read that restrictions in these circuits can cause the scavenge side of the oil pumps to strain and can eventually sieze the pump leading to a broken drive shaft between the back of the layshaft and oil pump. My question is two part,


1. Does anyone know of a fix for the rigid oil lines or where I can get replacements.


2. If the auxillary oil circuit is restricted (crushed lines, blocked cooler) can it screw up the oil pump, or lead to excessive oil in the crankcase because of the scavange side of the oil pump being restricted (I wonder if this could cause engine smoking??)
Thanks guys.

Bruce Anderson says crushed scavenge circuit oil lines can lead to worn bearings for the layshaft, excessive internal wear in the oil pump, and other maladies ... it does appear to be a serious problem needing immediate attention!

I have 'heard' conflicting reports that those line are aluminum and brass! Can you possibly scrape the crushed portion of one of the lines with a pocket knife, and try to determine whether the material is aluminum, brass, or steel? The repair method depends entirely on what material they are made of ...

My suspicion is that a replacement line from a dealer is rather prohibitvely priced! If the lines are not aluminum, it might be possible to cut the damaged sections out, and replace with a cut-to-fit piece of hydraulic tubing by brazing or soldering. Replacement metric hydraulic tubing can be obtained from Metric & Multistandard Components Corp. via phone or from one of their offices in Dallas, Hawthorne NY, or Burridge IL (Chicago area) ... most industrial bolt suppliers will be familiar with them, and should have a catalog. I believe those lines are 22 mm OD, and pressure is not really an issue with the scavenge circuit, easily under 100 psi at all times. MMCC also has compression splice fittings, should you be leery of brazing or soldering those lines.

A recycler/dismantler specializing in Porsche, such as EASY may have used lines available at a reasonable price if you don't wish to attempt a repair.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

I went thru this a while back with my Sc obviously some idiot mech from my PO had put a jack too close to one of my lines and pinched it a little

I had replaced my hoop with a Carrera cooler so I planned on cutting it up to patch a piece in the line where it was pinched ,after taking it to a specialty hose shop it was determined the lines are made of a very brittle brass alloy too hard and exotic to weld, we also tried using a torch to heat the pinched spot to hammer it out but again way to brittle

Even though they are expensive to replace the light brass alloy is designed to dissapate heat rapidly something a steel braided line wont be able to do as well

It would take quite a pinch to restrict the oil flow I attached a garden hose to my line and ran water thru it looking for obstruction of flow and really could not see any

I'm in the process of adding a front oil cooler to my car. I just added an '83 3.0 to my '70 T. I've made a deal over the internet to get a complete set from a turbo. I stopped by to talk to my mechanic about them and ask what kind of problems I should look for at that low of a price.
He had a '87 carrera up on the lift, and we went over the oil system. He pointed out the dreaded jack point where people have a tendency to lift the car under the oil lines. He says that he regularly repairs the same problem, and that it is a rarely easy fix.
He first cuts the brass lines near the dent (if it isn't too bad). Then he uses a socket that was welded onto a screw-driver handle. The socket matches the inside diameter of the lines, and he ground the end of it so it has more of a gradual pressure on the inside of the lines.
He just taps on the socket tool to expend the line pack to reasonable useability. When he is done he takes a 3/4in. copper straight connector (home depot) and fits it onto where he made the cut earlier. He then "sweats" the joints with solder (don't forget your flux, and cleaning). He says that it makes a great seal, and it's a pretty inexpensive fix, even for him to do for you ($75 an hour). He said if you are better you could braze the lines with a 3/4in brass connector, but at the pressure the lines run at, solder is just fine. Hope this helps.
Ed
70 911T

Thanks Ed Great tip.
Can you remember if he has to swage the oil line line out to meet a standard 3/4 brass connector, or are the 3/4 connectors a good fit over the oil line stright out of the box?

He said that the 3/4in adapter was a nice tight fit. And to do a good job on the soldering it would have to be a tight fit all the way. That's why he said to cut the lines behind the crush point, where the lines are still perfectly round. I'm sure you could use something else than the 3/4in. copper fitting. Hose and clamp, etc. But it wouldn't look pretty, and might make it hard to fit any body work atound it.
Ed
'70 911t w/'83 3.0