The way Doug describes sounds like a good idea...any reason not to use this method? Are there any "gotchas" associated with this process? I always wondered if this was an option since it seems sort of intuitive.

Okay, for all those who are still subscribing to this thread,
since I started this post, I wanted to follow up with my adjustment results.

First off, I made a STUPID mistake the first time around. Instead of using the pulley marks when turning the engine 120 degrees, I turned the distributor rotor 120 degrees!

So I adjusted #1 correctly, turned the ROTOR 120 degrees, then adjusted #6 when in reality I was at #2! Then I rotated the ROTOR another 120 degrees, tried to adjust #2 when I should have been adjusting #3, and so forth.

This is why my car sounded like s**t after the first time.

After realizing my mistake, I did it the CORRECT way last weekend and used the PULLEY marks. Now the car purrs without clicking!

Lessons I learned:

1) use the Rotor ONLY to find TDC and Z1 and nothing else

2) Doug's GO NO-GO method worked like a charm and I do not forsee EVER learning or trying the CLASSIC method!

Brian