PPI says engine needs rebuild. Help, quick answer needed!
 

Okay so the PPI comes back saying the engine needs a rebuild with an estimate of between $6,500 to $8,500 for the work. Everything else checks out acceptable. How much do you discount from the asking price when you make your offer? Is it the full amount or some percentage?

What car? kinda depends on the situation but I would ask for that amount off the price as a starting point; knowing I would do the work myself.

Early car, no rust, great body, pans etc.....

The seller is probably basing his pricing on the existing condition & mileage, once the engine is infact rebuilt and documented that will add value accordingly that said splitting the diffrence of the cost of rebuild should be a good starting point for you, the PPI is a good negotiating tool for you, remembr if the PO was to sell the car with a fresh documented rebuild he could also sell it for a premium of his current pricing good luck

Nope! The seller is in fact doing the opposite and basing price on the fact that the engine has only around 80k miles and has NEVER been opened it's being market as all original....

What year car? asking price? What was his response to the PPI claiming engine rebuild was needed, also how did the PPI determine this? were the numbers borderline? more info is needed to understand the gravity of work needed and determining negotiating posture

Year is '73, asking price is $25K, PPI determination was made by compression and leakdown tests performed by reputable and well known shop to this forum. Wost case leakdown was 30% on one cylinder. I've yet to bring it up with seller. That's why I'm asking here first.

I'm not sure about earler year 911 pricing seems a little high anything special about the car? S series? there are probably others with more knowledge on early cars that can shed some light on value, I beleive that 1973 is pre Magnesium case, BIG consideration I think that 74-77 were troublesome years not sure though

Due to the high asking price my take is that you should get almost a complete credit for the rebuild cost (and the price range you mention for a rebuild are reasonable). If the seller is honest, once you show him the results of the PPI it will help your negotiations as might feel compelled to mention it to other buyers (I know I would) if you don't buy. If you really want the car you can negotiate for part of the cost.

Most clean 911's on ebay sell for around $15,000 and that is fair. The market for these early cars has moved and will continue to move as these are the "classics". I would say that if you buy one for $15,000 that you are in on the ground floor but I don't know about $25,000 needing an engine. Plus unless poor maintenance, no 80,000 mile well kept engine should have that compression. I would tell him that its probably rolled over twice or oil hasn't been changed. There goes the price of that car!

no way a 25k car! I would want the full price of the rebuild. You will need to explain that when they sit unused the rings develop flats, and all kind of bad stuff happens, or walk away from it.

Thanks guys. I had felt that 25K was absolute top dollar for the car if it all checked out as advertised . The engine rebuild cost will definitly knock down my offer considerably. I think my personal thoughts line up quite well with all your opinions. I appreciate the turnaround.

Again, T, E or S is going to influence this decision. An S at 25K with a tired engine is still a fair price. And, why a full rebuild at 80K miles? They can't see the bearings, can they hear something? I say top end only for now AFA pricing and discounting goes. If that car gets down around 20K, you will have dozens of buyers to contend with. Consider this, my car ('71 S) sold for 18K, wrong seats, 15 x 7 wheels, not deep sixes and in primer!. Tired engine with little to no compression on no 6. It gets a rebuild and is for sale (or sold) in Germany for 44K.

I was thinking the same thing as Milt about the top end rebuild. Unless the place that did the PPI knows more about the bottom end that they didn't explain to you, that should be good for maybe 50K or more miles. I wouldn't even entertain paying anywhere near $25K for it. In good condition & needing a rebuild or top end, I'd think $10K to $12K tops even if the rest is in very good condition. I don't think any 33 year old car that is advertised as "original" will be in good enough condition not to need a significant amount of work (i.e. brakes, suspension, bushings, some rust fixes, rubber, & so on)
I'd try to work a realistic deal or walk & look for another that's more realistically priced for the condition.