stub axle nut removal !"/$%?&*
 

OK...any hint to remove the stub axle nut. I am in the process to do a job on my axle shaft CV joints...and unable to remove that !"/$%?&* stub axle nut. Advice is welcome...Thanks...Syl
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1162992881.jpg

Heat is your friend.

you need a hugely long pole to put over the end of the breaker bar. I think those things are 300 or 450ftlbs.

Yea...I will...And I need to find a stronger holding bar...as you can see on the pic...the one I use start to bend...there's any problem to use heat on the axle nut...because the axle will be heated too...!

Impact Wrench. <10s job. If you dont currently own one, buy the biggest lb-ft you can find for exactly these types of situations. (I've got an older ingersoll rand 2130 w/ ~600lb-ft of removal torque - the newer 2135 hits 1000lb-ft). Stay away from low-end home depot/craftsman/etc (though sears does sell some IR tools)

If you don't want to buy anything, use the bar, set the e-brake, AND have a friend mash the brake pedal while you try. Then go buy a big impact wrench when that doesn't work;)

SMD

leverage is your friend...I got a 4' black pipe and put that over the breaker bar.

Tabernac... if it is drivable, go to a local garage with an impact wrench and have them break it loose. Then tighten it up with YOUR wrench so you know you can loosen when you get home.

Syl:
Stop the butchery! You'll damage the studs and might knock the car off the stands! :(

Look at the manual, that nut is tightened to 220 ft-lb meaning:
Unless you have a 3/4"drive impact, you'll need a 3/4"drive socket, short extension, 3/4"breaker bar with a 3-4 ft pipe-extension.
Now take the center caps out of the rear wheels, mount the wheels, lower the car onto the wheels, put it in reverse gear, apply the hand break, use the socket thru the center hole of the wheels, short extension, breaker bar with pipe extension and step on it (Use your body weight) The nut will come loose.
It's all about fulcrum and leverage and 3/4" stuff, NOT 1/2 inch!
I don't recommend heat, but make sure the cotter pin is out.

A search here BEFORE the attempt would have helped; it's been covered many times. :)

Isn't that nut supposed to be tightened and loosened with the weight of the car on the wheels?

gunter's got it.

What I did...

1. pop out center cap
2. carefully heat up nut
3. Had friend press the brakes, e-brake on, tire on ground
4. 4 foot long breaker bar

still took some effort to get it loose

I actually BROKE a 1/2" breaker bar before I got a 3/4" one which was up to the task.

another vote for a decent impact gun.

Many thanks Gunter, I borrowed a heavy impact from a friend and will try it tonight...if the nut resist...I will go with the 3/4 stuff and a long bar with the car on its wheels. I will let you know the results...Thanks every ones.

and another :)

I ran into this same problem on my car.

Bought a better impact (craftsman) that did the job. Put it back on with the impact too then drove to my local wrench who had to BARELY snug it up with thier huge torqe wrench. Nice.


-Chris

Harbour Freight has a 1" metric set for around $35.00. I worked on my 87 carrera which is torqued to over 350 ft. lbs.

Keith Epperly
87 slant nose turbo look carrera cabriolet

I am well equiped with torque wrench...I am an Aircraft Engineer and the company I work for got a lot of them...along with some impact...He...He...He...

For the serious torque specs: http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200315001_200315001.htm