Installing Crank Windows
 

I'm installing the driver and passenger side crank windows in my '70 911 and was wondering if I should just place the botom of the window in the track or put some sealant in the track to secure the bottom of the window in the mechanism. Does anybody have a suggestion.

Thanks,
nick
1970 911 E

Nick,
On my car, when I put the manual windows, The glass piece was held in its support (rail) by a rubber layer, so that it made a "rail-rubber-glass-rubber-rail" sandwich. I even had trouble putting the window in the rail with the original rubber. It hasn't moved since, so I'm sure it holds OK.
My $0.02, GeorgeK

The Hayes manual has a very good discription of how to put the door glass in and a bolt tightning sequence for the window frames.

Randy Jones
1971 911

Randy -- I didn't see any details in the Haynes manual, at least for a Targa, or maybe I have a different version of the book? I bought mine ~8-10 years ago.

Due to work etc. I still haven't put the door glass back in my 70 Targa, and the wing windows are my main worry. The sequence of reassembly looks a little tricky.

Chris C.

Hey Chris, I have book #264 1990 printing. Chapter 10 talks about puttin door glass is a Coupe. The book is for 1965-89.

Randy Jones
1971 911

Thanks Randy, I found the coupe info but it doesn't cover the targa wing windows. I'm gonna try a 'dry run' tonight to see how everything fits, and then scrounge up all of the right hardware. I already have all of the (new) rubber and everything was rechromed, so it's just a matter of reassembly now.
Chris

Hey Chris, A thought, call Stoddars body shop the shop manager has h\been very good help to me in the past and just ask.

position in the support rail is important. It affects the fore and aft alignment so that the glass will be centered and not bind in the channel or in the case of the Targa, be too far aft to ride in the channel properly. It would then ride too far onto the rubber moulding at its rear side.If you have an old glass, you should see the sealant or stain indicating the actual position of the rail on the glass. There are alignment screws in the door for positioning the glass too. I believe the haynes manual has a piece on this in the last pages of the book.

Thanks for all of the help guys. I will definitely pay attention to all of the feedback and as I have a copue, will also check the Haynes manual.

I did this job (to the main drivers side window) last year.

Try using a vinal/rubber cleaning/restoration product on the rubber that sits in the window regulator channel.

Put plenty on and rub it well in - you'll find the rubber softens immediately. Its much easier to put the glass into rubber that has been treated this way, and an added bonus is that the rubber "grips" the glass once its in place.

I didn't use any glue, since the fit was good and snug, and I couldn't see any evidence of factory glue being used there before.

Well, that was year ago, and I've had no problems since!

Hope the above helps.

- roGER

Oops. Slow server. Double posted.

[This message has been edited by ggalloway (edited 08-23-2000).]

The Maestro has a story called "A Near-Virgin in Off-White" at his site (http://www.hcpresearch.com/stories/white.html) in which he repairs stuck window regulators with WD-40 and Armorall, no glue. His stories are pretty entertaining and filled with little useful tips. His subject is always a 356 or 912, but many of his tips are applicable to 911's as well.

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Greg
72 911S

Found an old Up Fixin' article that cited a distance of 88mm from the front of the glass to the metal rail as a position for installation. Hope it helps.