Engine Mounts Won't Come Out

jimi_c · 11-13-2006, 04:17 AM

I cant free the center bolts on my motor mounts - tried soaking them in PB Blaster for days - I'm afraid if I use a breaker I'll bend the cross-member. I haven't even tried the transmission mounts. I'm taking the car in for inspection - should I have them do it? I hate the thought of paying them $90 an hour for something I can easily do myself if I just get them off - I've never used heat, and don't really like the idea of putting a flame back there - any thoughts?

k9handler · 11-13-2006, 04:27 AM

try an impact wrench combined with a torque drive to break them free, the torque drive (like you would use on lug nuts) will flex/twist before any damage would happen....do others agree with that theory?

KFC911 · 11-13-2006, 05:09 AM

My impact wrench snapped one side of the cross member. I followed John Walker's advice for the other side (breaker bar). Make sure you're actually getting the PB Blaster into the threads of the bolt, the side that broke on mine was dry as a bone despite my repeated attempts. Here's a link to my experiences:

Tips on removing bolt from engine mounts.

jimi_c · 11-13-2006, 06:33 AM

Thanks for the link and the replies, I'll follow the JW advice - off to buy a breaker.

hatpix · hatpix's Garage

Just trying to think outside the box here.

What if you took a piece of heat-shrink tubing, and shrunk it onto the nut (make a little upwards elbow bend if needed), then sprayed the de-rusting agent into the resulting tube? It might put the juice right where it can to the most good.

KFC911 · 11-13-2006, 08:55 AM

On the Carrera's, the nut screws into the threaded crossmember, so the threads are actually inside the crossmember shaft. I attempted to spray from underneath 'up' to the threaded portion, and I also made a little rubber 'squirt tube' that I inserted (on top) between the large washers (hoping that the Rost Off would trickle down through the crossmember shaft to the threads). In my case, one side was nice and wet when I took it apart, the other was dry.

don911 · don911's Garage

I had the same problem when I replaced my motor a couple years ago.
I didn't realize until it was too late that when I was trying to remove the bolt, the cross member was bending at the weld. By then, it was already cracked at the weld so I ended up just breaking the end off the cross member.

JasonAndreas · 11-15-2006, 12:19 AM

Have you tried putting your hydraulic jack under the engine and lifting just enough to take pressure off the fastener and then trying to loosen everything?

jimi_c · 11-15-2006, 05:54 AM

I have - I've been soaking for days - I picked up a breaker bar and have a torch to put heat on it also (still not sold on that) - I'm getting it inspected tomorrow and taking a run with a bunch of Pelicans on Sat - so snapping my crossmember right now seems like a really bad idea.

tonythetarga · 11-15-2006, 06:00 AM

Maybe a stupid question...but how do you know you NEED to replace them? Do they have excessive give when you put a prybar to them?
I'd leave them alone, get your inspection done and let the PB soak in a bit more.
Later on put the impact wrench to them to get them loose.

jimi_c · 11-15-2006, 06:15 AM

They're original - and at this point metal on metal. The impact wrench seems to be the surest way to snap off an end.

safe · safe's Garage

A big breakerbar, the longer the better. You have a lot more control on things when it brakes loose if you don't have to pull/push with your full strength.

azasadny · azasadny's Garage

When you install the new bolts, be sure to put some copper anti-seize on the threads as it makes any future work that much easier...

911pcars · 11-15-2006, 07:41 AM

I'm going to suggest backdating to the previous method of using a nut and bolt.

The factory method of attaching the mount to the chassis isn't good. Threading a bolt into a part that is flexible and can't be easily held when loosened or tightened will eventually create a failure at the weld joint. I have a hard enough time lining up the mount to the crossbar holes to slide the bolt in.

I don't have a threaded version to be sure there's enough meat to drill it out for clearance. You could check and consider the modification, or find an early cross bar mount that uses a through-bolt and nut to clamp it to the chassis/motor mount.

Sherwood

jimi_c · 11-15-2006, 09:45 AM

That's a good idea - I'm going to have the shop do it - if they snap it, at least I won't have to tow it. If it breaks, I'll use the older style.

jimi_c · 11-17-2006, 11:43 AM

Just wanted to update - after soaking for 5 days in PB Blaster I put a 2' breaker on it and couldn't get it to go (you could see the cross member start to flex). So, while in the shop, the tech put heat on the nut and managed to break it free with a 3ft bar - had to lower the engine a little to get the other nuts off - took him a total of 2 1/2 hours. I'm bummed to have to resort to a tech for something like that, but at least it didn't break, and all new mounts and fresh swepco sure feels good - thanks to all for the input.

89911 · 11-17-2006, 01:34 PM

Carrera's are notorious for this. The mount fuses to the long bolts and freezes up. Just get it off anyway you can and re-weld it. I added a gusset to stop this from happening along with some anti-seize.