wire routing question (kill switch)
 

Hi-

I am in process of moving my kill switch to an existing , stock in dash location . The problem is the current kill switch is using the DME relay control circuit and when I pulled a couple of gages in the dash it looks like I have access to run wire to the fuse box in the front luggage compartment but I do not see an easy way to run wire from the dash to under the drivers seat, as it is enclosed by a metal panel underneath. Any suggestions without drilling holes?

Thanks,
Mike

You may want to consider using the ground wire off of your fuel pump for a kill switch.

Its much easier to route a wire that is already in the trunk region to behind the dash, instead of using one from the DME region under your seat.

Yes a thief may be able to start your car, but they won't get far.

Just a thought,
Matt

If you really want to run a wire from the DME, then you could route each wire (to the kill switch and return to the DME) under your carpet, then up into your trunk area, then behind into the gauge cluster region. You can route the wire as discreetly as you like in the carpeted areas. You're probably going to need at least 8 feet of wire for each direction. Make sure that you use the proper connectors at the end of it to ensure you make good electrical connections, or you may inadvertently assure that you will not be able to start your car as well as any would be thief
-Matt

Thank You, Matt-

I was thinking about using the fuel pump ground but that would require that the switch I am using be able to handle the amperage that the fuel pump draws (I dont think that it can) and shorten its life. Or I would have to wire in another relay which would complicate things. For your second idea, how would I access the trunk area from running the wires under the carpet under the dash board / panel?

Thanks,
Mike

If you look up under the pedal cluster you'll probably see an opening or two created by a PO. I know that you don't want to drill any holes, but if you can't find one all ready there, then you may have to. It only sheet metal, but I understand why you would be hesitant.
-Matt

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Mike - Since the switch is located 'after' the fuel pump the amperage should not be an issue. The electrons running through the switch theoretically have no energy left as the energy is consumed by the fuel pump. At least - that's the theory.

If the switch were installed before the fuel pump, that would be an issue.

Kato

I made a very small hole that was already there slightly bigger to do the job.

I found it by turning the lights off in the garage, placing a lamp in the passenger footwell, and observing any light coming through in the trunk.

Kato

I've never heard of that "theory" but then again, I don't get out much. ;)
-Chris

The load's resistance will dictate the current draw at given voltage of the source. Any returning electrons to the source theoretically have 0 Volts (Joules / Coulomb charge)

Please chime in if this is incorrect.

It's a circuit. The current drawn by the load will pass through every point in the circuit, including through the switch.

Otherwise, why would the ground straps need to be as thick as the supply side?

Oh, and electrons are negatively-charged particles; they flow from negative to positive.

Spuggy,

If you're talking about the nodes in a circuit, then you must realize that there is a voltage drop across any type of resistance. So each node will not have the same amount of voltage at it, unless the circuit has no sources of resistance. The current will be the same in any particular loop in the circuit, not the voltage.

The ground straps need to be the same size incase the resistance in the circuit some how goes away (or is bypassed as in a short circuit), so that the resulting circuit does not catch on fire. The thickness of the wire also has to do with the current the circuit must carry, too thin and the wire will melt and catch the insulation on fire (another reason ground straps should not be insulated.

-Matt