How to trun engine for valve adjustment
 

My question is how do I turn the engine over? My fan belt slips on the fan pulley, thus not allowing me to turn the engine crank. Should the belt be replaced and tightened to be able to turn the crankshaft?
Thanks in advance,
Nathan

Yes, either tighten the belt (remove shim(s)) and try again or you can turn it from the nut on the crank pulley (below the fan pulley)

Try squeezing the belt around the pulley with one hand, while turning the fan bolt with the other. This should take up enough slack to make the belt grab and turn the crank pulley. Watch your fingers! Obviously make sure the tranny is in neutral.

If you have removed all the shims and the belt still slips it is time for a new belt anyway. You'll lose cooling and charging (alternator) efficiency if it's too loose.

I'm also told to only turn the crank in it's normal rotation, never opposite as it can damage the timing chain tensioners? Can anyone explain why this is so?

Also, if you haven't yet moved the plugs, do so now. That will allow the engine to turn much more freely.

The tension on my belt is perfect and whenever I do a valve adjustment, it (the belt) usually will slip around the crank pulley during a compression stroke as I turn the nut on the fan pulley...unless of course I apply some tension to the belt with my free hand - then it (the engine) turns just fine.

I think it's a bad idea to remove the plugs for a valve adjustment. It's not necessary to help the engine turn and removal can actually disloge carbon which could throw off your adjustment.

+ 1 on the Sand_Man advice...turn the fan pulley nut with some tension on the belt and it will turn the engine as well.

turn wih a ratchet in the left hand and push in on the right side of the belt with your right. and leave the plugs in.

I hold the ratchet in my right hand pushing down, and reach across underneath with my left hand to apply tension to the right side of the belt. This is the ONLY time that I will disagree with John Walker, but I'm left-handed, and that works better for me :)

Thanks everyone; I appreciate it. I don't know why I don't think of this stuff. I guess it has something to do with being in the moment when it is cold in the garage.

i just timed mine. pull all the plugs and squeze the belt.

damn!!! I hate that. My next modification would be to drill an hole into the engine mount brace, in the area of the underdrive pulley to place an 19mm long socket to turn the engine when I need it.

Attach remote starter switch to solenoid. Bump engine to correct adjustment position. Avoid moving one inch from your laid out position until 3 valves are adjusted, then roll over 360º to repeat on the other bank.

Sherwood

I always do my valves one side at a time, too. I jack up one side of the car to let any excess oil in the lower cover run back into the case and then I just turn the engine 240 degrees each time I need to move to a different cylinder on the same side (instead of the 120 called for to move from bank to bank). When one side is done, I repeat the process by jacking up the other side.

I have NEVER had an issue turning over my engine by applying pressure to one side of the V-belt and then turning the fan nut. Never had to remove the spark plugs. Granted my engine's CR is 7.3:1.

That's what I did when I rebuilt my engine. I just got finished with my post break in valve adjustment and it was a piece of cake.

I do the squeeze the belt thing on my carrera it's 10.3 to 1 row motor works just fine

+1

My SC is 9.3:1 and it easily rolls over by squeezing the belt. There's no magic or mystery to it. One other thing, only turn your engine over big amounts by going clockwise.

Brian