Engine drop questions
 

Greetings,

It looks like I'll be dropping my engine ('89 3.2) sometime in the near future. I've read Wayne's book and perused several online sites, so I think I have an idea of what to expect. Before I do, I have a few questions:
1 - Is it a one-man job? Or should I expect to enlist the help of someone else?
2 - Is it advisable to jack all four corners of the car or just the rear?
3 - How high will I need to jack up the rears and should I take the tires off?

Thanks in advance,
Greg in San Diego

1. You can do it by yourself but it's always nice to have help.
2. Not really just the rear but if you keep the front low you can.
3. If I remember correctly I think it's 39 in. With rear wheels off you can get around much better.

1. It is a one man job but not for the first 3 times you are doing this.
2. It is better to jack only the rear end way up high (unless you have a shop with a lift, and then you wouldn't be asking these questions)
3. Very high, high enough to feel unsafe on some small jacks and stands so make sure you get great big stands.

1. It can be a one man job, but only with experience. An extra set of hands the first time, especially an experienced set, is essential. Make a written checklist and check off each item as you disconnect/remove it. Use the list in reverse when you install.

2. I only jack the rear.

3. You need to get the rear fairly high so that the top of the motor will clear the valence when you slide it out, but if you jack it too high with wood blocks on the jack, or using the factory jack points your jack may not be able to go high enough to reach the motor. You have to remove at least the passenger side wheel to access the oil lines, but removing both makes access easier in general.

Also, removing the muffler is highly recommended if you are using a motorcycle/ATV jack.

Oh, and drop the tranny/engine together, it's easier.

yelcab nailed it! "high enough to feel unsafe" i love it!
harbor freight has big ones, not as nice as zoanas' though! also check sams.
go to home depot and get a flat furniture dolly $20, i lower my motor down on 4 bricks, then roll the dolly under and set it on that to roll it out.
then i have to use the floor jack to raise the car another 3 or 4 inches.
finding the balancing point is the hardest thing, mine is just to the rear of the oil sump.
zoanas, where did u get those?

Engine removal
 

I'd like to add a question to this discussion if that's oaky. Once the engine is removed and on some sort of dolly to move it around, how do you raise it up to put it on an engine stand?

I used these methods:

1. Four strong neighbors (engine is north of 400 lbs)
2. When I can't get my neighbors, I use an engine crane.

I managed to get my engine on/off the stand using a floor jack with a 6x8 (approx 3 ft long) under the engine running between the heat exchangers. It was fairly stable, but an engine hoist is preferable.

Is it safe to lift the enyire rear of the car that high from the engine sump only? My 3.2 looks different from the 101 Projects book - doesn't seem to be a flat spot anywhere like the earlier 911's.

Thanks, Greg

i put a 2x6 on my floor jack placed under the engine/trany.
i keep it off the clutch arm. u may have to back the car up onto some 2x6's to get it under...thats the price we pay for having low cars

3.2' s are different on the bottom. They have no sump plate.

As long as you distribute the weight evenly (2x4's, etc..) it should be fine. Be very careful not to touch or dent the oil return tubes.

Made 'em myself! :D

If the rear is jacked up high at the moment the engine actually slides out, then your engine is going to be three feet off the ground, probably balancing on the narrow head of a floor jack. Yes, this can be done by one person but it's as scary as riding with Tyson.

The method I prefer is to, when it comes time to actually release the engine, lower the car nearly to the ground, slide a good dolly under it (I have a large metal table on casters, about 5" high) and remove the engine when it does not have far to fall. I use wood blocks so it doesn't fall at all. Then raise the car, once the engine is on the dolly. The rear of the car might need to be raised as the engine comes out, so that the engine can move backward far enough for the shift rod to come out of the tunnel.

A SUV jack works well to raise the car - the later 3.2's have good jack spots just to the front of the rear tires.

I prefer to raise the front up a little, on jack stands, the rear up alot - unbolt the engine and transmission as one - loosen just a little. . rasie the ATV jack up to meet the engine - atv jack with two by fours or similiar wood till you feel it take some pressure off - unbolt the rest of the engine (I like to put the front of the transmission on a floor jack to control the yaw). When loose - slowly lower the engine. (this is a good time to do it in stages to make sure you heven't forgotten to loosen anything or to make sure something hasn;t got hung up)

When you get the engine all the way down, lower the front of the car to the ground, that will rasie the a$$ end up even higher. roll the engine and transmission out. Take a picture of yourself with a silly grin on your face in the engine bay.

Working Alone......
 

Since I've been working alone all this years, safety was my main concern in raising the car more than 3 feet above the ground during engine removal. Although floor jack/s is a common choice of most DIY's for engine removal, I opted for a different method.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165372930.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165373481.jpg

The convenient and safety of this portable hoist is so remarkable that I offer to remove/install 911 engine for free to fellow DIY guys in my region. PM me and I'll come and remove your engine. Offer good to 100 miles from Philly.

Take your time and be safe.

TD

Check out my thread...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=310898&perpage=20&pagen umber=1

Thanks everyone - Still makes me think I need an extra set of experienced hands, though.

I figure I can do 90% by myself. Anyone in San Diego willing work for beer & pizza on the other 10%?

Greg in San Diego

You don't have to go quite as high is you remove the air box and the MAF. I think I can get 32" or 33" to the bottom of the bumper but do this you then have to direct the highest part of the engine through the cutout in the bumper for the exhaust. It would be good to have another few inches but like the other said my comfort level starts to dwindle at that much of a lift and then the short lift jacks don't want to reach. If you can afford it I would look into the "raise the car" method using an engine lift to raise the car off the engine instead of lowering the engine from a really high car. To answer your question yes it can be done by one person but who will hear you swearing when the oil line won't come loose ...... and who will take the picture of you in the engine bay... I would love to come visit my sister in SD and help you out but am working on my own torn apart mess at the moment so remember this is FUN....