1980 SC No Start

Brad w · 04:44 PM

The other day my wife had the car washed and the end result was no start. Had the car towed to the house let it sit for a day and it fired right up. The problem is we drove it today went to eat the went to Lowes and when we came out the car would not start. It is as if we have no spark.
What should I start with ?

Boxer_Airhead · 12-17-2006, 09:28 PM

Seems like a warm start issue. Check the fuel pump check valve (inside the oem fuel pump) and the fuel accumulator.

After driving the car and shutting off the engine, turn the ignition back on (ENGINE OFF) and let the fuel pump run for 30 seconds or so this should allow the accumulator to re-build up pressure for when you come back to your car in 30 minutes or so. The idea is that while the warm engine is off the accumulator should retain pressure in the system until you start again. If it does not do this then the accumulator may be bad.

This is at least my understanding. Wait and see what else the experts have to say.

-Myles

Brad w · 12-18-2006, 08:32 AM

How do you know if the coil is good?

targa80 · targa80's Garage

Question: What do you mean by no start?

Such as:

Starter just clicks
Starter turns motor but no combustion
starter turns motor has some combustion but dies as soon as key is in run position.
Fuel pump pumps fuel but no spark
spark but no fuelpump

Brad w · 12-18-2006, 11:04 AM

The motor just spins. this is an intermitend problem this happened a while back, but then started and ran fine for a few weeks. The tach turns (or bounces) while cranking but no fire. It will also bust off for a fraction of a second every once in a while. It might start when I get home.
Thanks

Superman · 12-18-2006, 11:21 AM

After a washing, no-start problems are almost always water in the distributor cap. Wipe it with denatured alcohol for best results.

Otherwise, recurring hot start problems (when the engine is hot and was shut off for 15 minutes or so).

If you have having a cold start problem and you have made darned sure that every bit of moisture and humidity are absent from your distributor cap, then the next step is to see if you have a spark. Using a pair of insulated pliers, remove the wire from the center of the distributor cap and hold it near the closest intake port or perhaps the fan housing while someone runs the starter. You should see a snappy blue spark that is happy to jumpt a half-inch.

Brad w · 12-18-2006, 04:50 PM

I found part, if not all the problem. The wire from the fuse panel to the fuel pump is corroded and loose.
But after stripping bact to new wire and tightening the screw it apears I have a short in the fuse block.
Can this be re-routed to bypass the fuse block until I do a pemanant fix?

targa80 · targa80's Garage

One time my 1980SC dropped dead on my way to work. It turned out to be a wire on the fuse block also. I cut the wire back and tinned the end with solder before reinstalling. The wire from the fuse block to the fuel pump relay circuit can get corroded and cause a high resistance point that will heat up and eventually fail.

What makes you think that you have a short in the fuse block?

I would not suggest bypassing any fuse in the car. They are there to prevent an over current condition that could fry a circuit and start a fire.

Brad w · 12-19-2006, 04:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by targa80
One time my 1980SC dropped dead on my way to work. It turned out to be a wire on the fuse block also. I cut the wire back and tinned the end with solder before reinstalling. The wire from the fuse block to the fuel pump relay circuit can get corroded and cause a high resistance point that will heat up and eventually fail.

What makes you think that you have a short in the fuse block?

I would not suggest bypassing any fuse in the car. They are there to prevent an over current condition that could fry a circuit and start a fire.

I have to push on the lower screw hard to get good current and engage the pump.
I also will use an external in line fuse just to confirm the short in the fuse block. I think I may have some corrosion.
The part # is 911-612-086-02 for the 10 pole fuse block, I hope it is still avalible.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Pull out the red relay and look at the condition of the pins and the holes in the plug. Discolored? Burned? Smells?
The pump may draw too much current; do a search for this here.
Make sure the +wire and ground is not deteriorated, replace if necessary
Clean the connections on the pump.
Many things can cause a no-start and without knowing the state of the components for ignition and fuel, and maintenance history, a long-distance fix is virtually impossible.

azasadny · azasadny's Garage

Do you have an old alarm system on the car that could be causing this? My old HoffCo alarm system caused a very similar problem until my mechanic surgically removed it!

Brad w · 12-19-2006, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by azasadny
Do you have an old alarm system on the car that could be causing this? My old HoffCo alarm system caused a very similar problem until my mechanic surgically removed it!

No alarm. that was one of my first thoughts. I ordered a new 10 pole fuse block for $85. Probably not completely needed, but can't hurt. I also ran a new wire from the fuse block to the first wire splice of the fuel pump. This should eliminate any corrosion and get me back on the road.