New Fuse Box Project w/Flat Style Fuses
 

Here are some pictures of my latest fuse box project.
I upgraded to flat style fuses a long time ago, with a new fuse panel in the original location. But I decided to move the fuses inside an aluminum bow for a more tidy look.
At the same time I made a relay panel where the stock fuse panel used to be to hold a total of 8 relays. 4 of them are for the lights to ensure maximum light output and to prevent the common(?) meltdown of the light switch at the steering column.

Not quite finished – I need to connect a few more wires and paint the relay panel black.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654243.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654259.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654276.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654298.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654316.jpg

.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654386.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654402.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654416.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654437.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654454.jpg

.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654519.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654536.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654552.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654566.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166654582.jpg

Very nice work!!!

awesome!....definate copycat work will happen with this project (as with your previously awesome fuse upgrade project) :-)

Great work!!!!!

Where did you get the relay enclosure you are using?

Thanks guys :)

This is where I got the aluminum box:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?FORM=CAT

Very fast shipping (from Australia).
Select "enclosures" and "aluminum" from the left menu.

But I´m sure there are many shops in the US selling similar enclosures.

Great job. The holes on your fabbed bracket threw me at first until I realized your car's on a diet.

Ian

Here´s an update w/more pictures:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167170504.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167170522.jpg

I used a small LED as an indicator for when the main power is turned on with the battery disconnect switch.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167170537.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167170553.jpg

That is very nice but do the next owner a favor and very carefully label all of the fuses and wires. Include a detailed wiring diagram as well that shows how you moved from factory setup to yours including the wire color changes.

One problem you may have is getting someone else to work on the electricals with the modified box. Because they can not be absolutely certain that the wiring conforms to the factory layout, they may charge extra to trace the circuits and then not warranty the work anyway.

Harry,

Problems having someone else working on the electrics is not an issue as I do all the work myself :)

I made several wiring diagrams during this project. I'm keeping the final diagram in the car with the registration documents. The main difference is that I added four relays for the lights.

I follow the factory fuse locations if you start counting fuses from the rear of the stock fuse panel. My new fuse no.1 is located right rear (rear of the car). Fuse no.11 is on the second row, left rear.
I'm thinking of putting labels on the fuse box lid, next to each fuse to identify the circuts.

Ove, that is some nice work. I will have to use some of those ideas when I do my fuse and relay upgrade :)
Do you have more info on that washer bottle upgrade??

Pål,

Thanks :)

The washer bottle is for the rear window of an 1983-87 Mazda 626. The stock 911 washer bottle was too heavy.
I'll see if I can find some pictures of the bracket I made to hold it.

Excellent work.

Are you leaving the fuse box mounted to the floor of the trunk? If so, and if you put something in the trunk, don't you risk it sliding over and damaging the exposed fuses?

Pål,

Here are some pictures of the lightweight washer bottle:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167255687.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167255701.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167255717.jpg

Ok, that's 230 g. all up with the pump mounted (?)

How much did the stock washer bottle weigh?

Source of Wire
 

Ove,

Where did you obtain the stipped color coded automotive wire for your current project? Also, are you using crimped connectors? Also, what are the dimension of the box?

Your first project was awesome, but this one really has the makings of a significant improvement on the seemingly perfection of your first selection.

Fantastic work.

Like I said, it is a nice looking job. Just looking down the road to what the future may bring.

By all means, get the labeling and drawings done now while it is fresh in your mind. Later, if you do not, you will find the details hard to recall. You will thank yourself many times over when you are troubleshooting a short at the other end of the car.

Thanks Dan :)

The yellow/green wire was purchased at "Biltema", a scandinavian auto parts shop. I got the fuse holders, relays and relay holders at the same place. Yellow/green wires are used for ground in houses/household electrics (220V). This is a "special" wire because it's very flexible and has a lot of individual copper cords, making it suitable for automotive use. Normal household wires are not recommended for use in a car.

The 10x fuse holders were less than $ 10 each and fit the enclosure perfectly. I used a threaded "spacer" to get them at the right height inside the box.

I used crimped connectors at the fuse box connections, but I may solder them later. All wire-to-wire connections are soldered and covered with heat shrink tubing. This is time consuming, but must be done to avoid problems in the future.

The enclosure was purchased at Jaycar (see the link above)
Order details:
Sealed Diecast Aluminum Enclosure - 222 x 146 x 55mm
STOCK-CODE:HB5050
$36.95 (Australian $)
Shipping was $10 to Europe

Harry,

I couldn't agree more. Without a diagram a project like this could create more problems than it solves..

HELLO OVE! It's been a long time....nice to see your name pop up again.

Nice work on the fuse panel. Glad to see you're still at it.

Thank you Ove, I am starting this project during the winter. Could you PM me some more info??

Thanks for the information
 

Ove,

Thank you for the response. I have a 71T that I have assembled the majority of parts for a fuse panel upgrade similar to your original project. Your latest one, if you don't mind, will be plagiarized for the early car for many reasons. I think it will fit my early much better in the left battery box.

Happy New Year.

Souk,
Good to hear from you too!
I've been busy lately, but I finally got the time to find the pictures of the installation and post them here.

Dan,
Good to hear that you find it useful for your own car :)
Send me a PM if you need any help (tech info or finding parts).

Pål,
I'll PM you soon.





Happy New Year to you all

I relocated the battery to the smuggler's compartment. This completes the electrical modifications. At least for now.
The old battery was 17 kg. The new one is 9.5 with the mounting plate and brackets. We'll see if 30A is enough...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167333676.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167333688.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167333703.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167333717.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167333733.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167333750.jpg

oh I really like how you did the battery, very nice!

where did you get the relay holders? I have been looking for that type for a while just had to order one from porsche and it didnt have the metal connectors in it when it came.

Ken,

The relay holders are from "Biltema" a local auto parts store. They were around $ 2 each. Send me a PM if you want me to get some of them for you.

I would prefer to have the stock round relays, but those relay sockets are $ 51 each (!) from Pelican. Add $ 21 for each round relay and you can see why I used the regular square ones instead. I could have bought used round relays and sockets, but judging from the poor condition of my old ones I decided to buy new parts.

Did you add flyback diodes to your relays?

Info for anyone interested...

Flyback:

"One other consideration when using relays is the current spike created by the coil. When a coil of wire has current running through it, a magnetic field is created. This closes the contacts of the relay. When the current is removed from the coil, the magnetic field collapses and this causes current to flow through the wire until the magnetic field is completely collapsed or gone. This can cause a damaging voltage spike back towards the logic circuit. This is called flyback and is avoided in the above circuit with a flyback diode."

From:
http://www.acroname.com/robotics/info/articles/drivers/drivers.html

Example:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167375493.gif

Uhhhh... neither the headlight filaments nor the manual switch contains any active devices. I suppose a switch could qualify as a logic circuit since it has 2 states...

I believe a flyback diode is built into the standard fuel pump relay, that's why I asked.

And the explaination above, while correct in it's theory, is not correct for this application.

Ove:

I'd still cover the "hot" side of the battery terminal with some kind of rubberized protection.....

- Wil

I spent way to much and had one shipped from porsche in germany. But thanks for offering.