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Porsche Crest Disaster! Amateur on the loose! G50 accident

You can see what trouble I caused last night while removing the 3.2 engine for my first time (solo) from my 1987 Carrera . One of two bushings that the clutch shaft goes through to connect the release fork and the transmission casting broke off!

What do I do now?

Please help!

James
james.thompson@rogers.com

Old 12-22-2006, 09:35 PM
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Had the same thing happen on my engine drop.

#$%^!! G50 tranny - ear broke off while removing the release shaft

I took the tranny to a local shop and they welded the piece back on. I haven't had any issues since.
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Old 12-22-2006, 09:50 PM
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Don, those words are more comforting than even my mother's most sentimental.

Great news! I thought I might have to replace the G50 casing or something equally expensive.
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Old 12-22-2006, 09:58 PM
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ouch that sucks! Hope it can be fixed...how did this happen? Seems to me this would not happen if the engine and tranny were both removed together and then seperated.
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Old 12-23-2006, 12:38 AM
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Find the broken piece and let someone TIG it back on the case. It shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 12-23-2006, 01:41 AM
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This happens on a g50 when you try to remove the clutch fork shaft. You need to do this to separate the engine and tranny
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Old 12-23-2006, 06:29 AM
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I've read a lot on the 2 arguments of taking engine and tranny out as one, or separately.

From personal experience, I think they will come out as one next time, as the force of the engine hanging off the G50 caused (along with my ignorance) the bushing to break.

Thanks for everyone's reply. I will now look up a good Tig welder Ontario, instead of an auto recycler.

Any referrals?
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Old 12-23-2006, 07:39 AM
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http://www.mantisautomotive.com/index.shtml

Talk to Ernie-he is the owner.
They are located in Oakville,Ontario.
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Old 12-23-2006, 08:05 AM
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Those who talk of removing engine sans trans are talking about a 915 or 911 or 901 tranny. The folks I know take a G50 out with the engine. For the reason you stated...and headaches when reinstalling.

Good luck with the repair. After the welding, besure to get the bronze bushing kit and new cross shaft and get rid of the needle bearing!
Old 12-23-2006, 08:09 AM
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I always take them off at the same time. Much easier than separating the engine in the car from the tranny. Safer too.
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Old 12-23-2006, 08:33 AM
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James, I second Ernie at Mantis. He is on Speers Rd. in Oakville.

Brian
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Old 12-23-2006, 08:53 AM
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Thanks for the referral. I just sent Ernie the photo moments ago.
Old 12-23-2006, 09:14 AM
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I love the Internet - Ernie got back to me already and said he could fix it!

Thanks to everyone for all your help. I guess the panic attack can subside (until I break something else that is).
Old 12-23-2006, 09:27 AM
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that can happen even if you're trying to be careful. the cross-shaft doesn't usually just slip out. they get pretty stuck due to the bearings in the fork chewing the shaft, and a slide hammer is needed. i soak the bearing area with penetrant first and let it sit a while before very carefully tapping it out with the slide hammer. some never do free up and you have to go a little harder, and that's when it happens. definitely ruins your day, but they weld back on ok if the welder guy is good.
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Old 12-23-2006, 10:25 AM
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Glad it's working out. I remember my panic attack when it looked like a replacement G50 was in my future.

I put in the factory shaft update when I did mine. It has to be line bored I believe. Depending on what cross shaft you go with, make sure you get the inside diameter done while it's at the shop...assuming a porsche shop is doing the welding.
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Old 12-23-2006, 10:27 AM
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Don,

What was your weld (repair) bill? Should I order this factory shaft update from Pelican first and bring it to the shop so that they can fit it properly?



Old 12-23-2006, 10:36 AM
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The driver's side axle is bolted to the transaxle with a non-allen wrench bolt. I cannot identify it, but can only describe it as a TORX bolt, but inside out. This picture is blurry.

Anyone know what that bolt is and what kind of wrench I need to unfasten it?

Old 12-23-2006, 10:50 AM
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If there are 12 pts, I think the correct term is tri-square but don't know for sure. The tool I bought says K-D 2305 on it. I think I got it at a local schucks or Autozone type place.

I had to take a couple of mine out with a vice grips. If you can't track down a tool, vice grips work pretty well on them.

Here's what it looks like.
mytoolstore.com

sent you pm on the weld repair cost.
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Old 12-23-2006, 11:19 AM
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James

Where are you in Toronto? Can I drop by & have a look sometime in the next week? I've never seen a 3.2 engine or tranny out . . .

Ian
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Old 12-23-2006, 11:33 AM
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I'm surprised people even attempt to take the engine out alone on a G50 car? How the heck can you get at the cross shaft to release the trans. from the engine?

The preferred shaft replacement these days is the aftermarket assembly that uses all bushings instead of bearings that are prone to contamination. Aftermarket kit is sometimes a tight fit, so be sure to check the fit of the new bushings on the new shaft to make should it operates smoothly. If not smooth, hone the bushings a bit with fine sandpaper to open up the bore a tiny bit. Polish smooth/shiny after you get good fitment.

The screws you're looking at on your axle shafts are just what you said- male Torx screws. So you need female External Torx sockets instead of the more common male Torx bit. You can get them at Sears. They're labeled as "E" sockets because of the external designation. Lisle also makes them, so any parts store that carries Lisle tools may have these sockets. I actually got my Lisle "E" sockets at Sears because they were $10 cheaper and i'm sure i'll use them rarely, if at all.

Here they are at Sears.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00934570000
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Old 12-23-2006, 11:41 AM
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