Eninge Drop in 20min the Tony Adamowicz way
 

Getting ready for first drop and came across this tidbit while cruising web (bottom of page)

http://www.a2zracer.com/page13.html

Has anyone ever installed what Tony is talking about with the "quick electrical cannon plug that disconnected all wiring with one twist of the wrist" Do you simply run all the wiring through a large plug connector and where do you install it?

BTW, look at that jack pix! There are some really cool vintage 911 and 917 race pix on his site.

Re: Eninge Drop in 20min the Tony Adamowicz way
 

I know what he is talking about.

A cannon plug is a two part, weather tight, military style electrical connector. There are many variations with different current carrying capacities. No doubt the ones in his Trans-AM 911 were military surplus as were the Aeroquip fluid drybreaks. You could find them at the various surplus outlets but a lot of that has dried up (racers, home aircraft builders, etc. took most of it out of circulation by the late 70’s).

Here is a quickly found link to show you pictures of a cannon plug. I am not endorsing the site – just for a quick picture. http://www.peigenesis.com/ittCannon.html
I feel sure you have seen them but maybe not heard them referred to as cannon plugs. There are also many sources for similar type plugs. If you have a relatively new car (any brand) look under the hood and you will see them (typically in plastic). Today even the military grade plugs come in plastic, as well as the metal cannon style. Here is a source (good company to deal with) and a brand (Deutsch - also very good) for the plastic variety. http://www.laddinc.com/home.aspx
Weather Pac is another plastic variety that you will find in may cars today (they are black color and flat with anywhere from 1 to 6 or more conductors - available at auto parts stores). The Cannon plugs are available with a bulkhead receptacle that allows one of the components to be fastened in (through) a firewall. The plastic ones and also the cannon plugs are also available with non bulkhead male and female components. For securing them you simply use a ty rap to attach them in a safe location.

As for the fluid dry break couplers, surplus Aeroquip use to be the primary source. Now you can buy many different brands from may sources. Here is one source (good company to deal with) and a brand (Staubli - very good but expensive). Aeroquip is also still available. http://www.goodridge.net/usa/pdf/motorsport/Goodridge_staubli_products.pdf

Unless you are going to remove your engine a lot I do not think either is very practical unless you just wanted to do it for fun – nothing wrong with that either. But beware - fitting new bodywork, as an example, may prove easier than modifying you electrical and fluid systems for quick disconnects - that is with the job being properly done. That would not be a weekend job nor one for the faint of heart. It would be much easier to do on a race or track day car.

Tony’s site is excellent. Great guy too.

Ashley Page
Davidson NC

The one twist electrical disconnect would help, but I've found that at least on SC/Carrera model cars, the electrical connections don't take very long to disconnect anyways. There really aren't that many of them, and they don't take very long.

The fluid systems are the bigger PIA, IMO. And of course the mechanical parts, the shift linkage, throttle cable, fuel lines, etc. are what takes the most time, esp. on cars that have not had the drivetrain removed in a long time (tight, corroded bolts, etc.).

If you took the engine out of your 915 transmissioned SC/Carrera yesterday and then fully reinstalled it, I bet you could get it out again today in less than 40 minutes, working alone, easy (leaving the trans in place).

Still, for a race car, Tony's system is uber cool. I particularly like the dry disconnects for the fluids. That's really helpful.

Ashley, thanks for the links! I may install a couple as i am just doing a top-end reseal this time and a full rebuild in a years or so when i have more time. (Do you teach at Davidson?... i went to college there)

don't install on oil lines unless you need them. They cause some back pressure.

I pushed myself about 9 months ago to see how quick I could drop the motor and trans, seperate them and replace the rear main seal. Mind you I have a shop with a lift, all the tools you could ever need, a jack plate for the engine assy, and air tools. Start to finish with NO LEAKS. 2 hours 40 minutes. Not my first time though I have been at this game for nearly 20 years. It gets a little easier the more you do it

No, not a teacher, but thanks for the flattering insinuation. I am a retired race car mechanic / fabricator – now in a second career. Tony is a friend from years ago and we still stay in touch.

I have already installed a couple of the Deutsch connectors in my car, when I replaced components. I am getting ready to replace the trombone cooler with a radiator and may add fluid drybreak connectors to that system. As I go along I will add more. I am also planing a future engine change and at that time may go all out - for no good or practical reason other than I can and I will have two engines and transmissions to fool with.

Also, like "The" said, sorting out all the mechanical linkages, cables, etc. would make jobs much easier and more enjoyable.

Ashley

Not if you use the correct type and size them for the application.

Very true. I bet that many folks would be surprised how big a properly sized high flow low pressure dry break would be. The one that would run from the oil tank to the motor at gravity pressure comes to mind. It would need to be calculated for the viscosity of the oil when cold as well.

Thanks for the link to that website. Great pics of a time gone by and the cars I love.