Mounting sound deadening mat

elflamo · 12-21-2006, 10:22 AM

Bought a brand new sound deadening pad for the engine bay (black). It has a side with some plastic layer and a side with the foam. Which side gets glued?

Thanks!!

Elflamo

nesslar · 12-21-2006, 12:15 PM

Leave it out, send it back, and enjoy all the wonderful noise.

I like quiet, generally, but not when I'm in that cockpit. Top off, drive hard (sorta).

elflamo · 12-21-2006, 12:32 PM

Thanks, I was expecting some opinions on the function of the mat.

No clue on the glue?

SoCal70RSR · 12-21-2006, 12:36 PM

I'm not sure which pad you have but when I installed the Appbiz mat in my engine bay, the shiny part was glued against the sheetmetal and the black was facing the engine. I called Appbiz and they said you could mount it either way. I used 3M super glue 90... in my case, after gluing the pad and waiting about 10 minutes the two parts separated, so I used some of the 3M to glue those back. Good luck.

randywebb · 12-21-2006, 01:30 PM

see if it will only fit one way?

is it the stock pad? it has a 'skin' on it that faces rearewards towards the motor.

911pcars · 12-21-2006, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by elflamo
Bought a brand new sound deadening pad for the engine bay (black). It has a side with some plastic layer and a side with the foam. Which side gets glued?

If the "Plastic side" is shiny, install it so it faces the engine. Otherwise, the foam will deteriorate and sprinkle the engine with foam dust just like the factory liner.

Sherwood

imcarthur · imcarthur's Garage

I mounted mine foam side in like the factory one.

You can use 2 adhesives to make the job easier. Use a trim adhesive that you spread on the firewall - it's slow dryig. Use 3M spray adhesive on pad & firewall for the initial quick stick.

Ian

pozee · 12-21-2006, 02:09 PM

Haven't installed it yet...I bought mine from Driving Source in Salem. OR (Great to deal with). Dennis was nice enough to include specific installation directions. Here is what they state:

1 - Remove old sound pad and clean surface as best you can. Don't worry about old glue.
2 - Remove hood struts and prop up hood with an old broomstick handle.
3 - Layout the new sound pad with the spongy side up.
4 - Use 3M weatherstrip adhesive and spread beads of the sealant throughout the pad.
5 - (This is the tricky part) Carefully center the pad and begin the process of push, pull, tug and align it against the firewall.
6 - Once it is situated in the desirable position, apply moderate hand pressure to the pad pressing it to the firewall. If you have bent steel keepers, carefully bend them back into place.

It will take an hour or so to install.

Good luck.

randywebb · 12-21-2006, 02:49 PM

re #4 - I used two 3M products the spray & the tube -- spray the pad and metal firewall; and put thin beads around the edges and in some big X's in the middle

the above is much faster

Evans, Marv · 12-21-2006, 07:59 PM

I made a pad from insulating material 1 in. thick I got from J.C. Whitney. It has an aluminum mylar material on one side of foam with a thin layer of high density plastic of some sort sandwiched in the middle of the foam. Sort of sounds like what you are describing. I didn't glue mine on at all, because I didn't want to. I felt like it would come off some time like Fernando said his did. Plus I actually didn't like the idea of smearing glue on the metal (I just painted) because it is messy. So, I bought 4 "elevator bolts" about an inch or inch & a quarter long at Lowes. I also bought some aluminum strip about two inches wide. Next I epoxy glued the flat heads of the elevator bolts to the metal - two under the top of the shelf & two on the back of the firewall equally spaced toward the sides. Then I cut the aluminum straps to fit across those areas and drilled holes where the bolts would pass throught the aluminum strips. Next I fitted the insulation against the metal and pressed the insulation against the bolts to break through the insulating pad. After that I fitted the aluminum strips & put a couple of fender washers over the ends of the bolts & secured them with with nylock nuts. The only thing additional I had to do was pop rivet a couple of small strips of the aluminum (in a T pattern) on the ends of the bar under the package shelf, because the pad drooped down on the outside portion by the hinges. Does an excellent job of holding the pad up & I can remove it & replace it any time I want. Just do a good job of gluing the heads of the elevator bolts.
Sorry for the length. Good luck.

WoodSport · 12-21-2006, 10:12 PM

Related topic: Is there a way to get the factory glue (1984) off cleanly, without damaging the paint?

SP2 · 12-21-2006, 10:19 PM

My opinion: Definitely put the foam side in. When that foam deteriorates, it will get sucked into the alternator fan and then get blown toward the cylinders for cooling. I just pulled my 81SC engine and foam had done exactly that, and then begins to accumulate on the fins of the cylinders. That's bad for the cooling.

KFC911 · 12-22-2006, 04:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by WoodSport
Related topic: Is there a way to get the factory glue (1984) off cleanly, without damaging the paint?

It was a royal PITA, but I removed all traces of the glue using "Goo Gone" (available many places). I also had my engine lowered (partial engine drop) to make it easier. Did I mention that it was a royal PITA

Super_Dave_D · Super_Dave_D's Garage

I would use 3m Black Super Weather Adhesive - that stuff holds anything. I believe its in a red tube.

Zeke · 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by WoodSport
Related topic: Is there a way to get the factory glue (1984) off cleanly, without damaging the paint?

Solvent cleaners work, but are hard on you. No acetone. More like enamel reducer, metal prep (not the acid kind) or carpet seam sealer cleaner. Use gloves, fan and mask. But, they disolve it pretty fast.

KFC911 · 12-22-2006, 08:04 AM

That's what I like about "Goo Gone", it works very well, but without any of the negative aspects that Milt mentions.

elflamo · 12-28-2006, 01:36 PM

Randy, yes, it is the stock pad. As the shop that shipped it had to fold it, the 'skin' has some vertical 'folds' (duh) that won't disappear. Or would that be a too anal reason for considering to install with the foam towards the engine...

I guess swapping it at the shop for an unmarked one is an option, although I'm the one the requested for shipping...

Will try to swap, if not possible then I will ask you if it would be possible to paint the skin black, thus hiding the folds

randywebb · 12-28-2006, 01:37 PM

too anal - they should swap it for you tho

elflamo · 12-28-2006, 01:46 PM

Okido

Now, do a 100 posts get me to sr membership.....???

elflamo · 12-28-2006, 01:47 PM

WOOHOO, YES!

Ok, back to more serious business now...