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the '81 SC fuel pump and the PMO regulatur, which uses the stock return line, is a nice carb feed.
__________________ How about early cars without return line set-ups? Or is it just better to install the return? |
see if pelican stocks a 912FPMP pump. that's the worldpac number. it's a small inline rotary pump that works properly right out of the box with no pressure regulator needed.
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Sherwood |
thanks JW also Sherwood any part# on the textar fuel pump and psi reg? thanks Chuck
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Here's the pump. AIRTEX model E8016S. 4 psi. That works out to 3-3.5 psi at the fuel block in the engine compartment, thus no FPR required. I clamped it to the crossmember (w/o the supplied bracket), sandwiched between split radiator hose for cushioning, noise and vibration reduction. I energize it with a separate switch for a small degree of theft protection. Sherwood http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168248379.jpg |
weber flooding Update
Hi guys took the suspected carb top off to check things out. One float was sunk about a quarter of a inch . Here are some pics the floats. The one closest to you is much lower compared to the float in the center. The plan is to replace bad one and continue above procedures. Thanks agian everyone for the great advice Chuck.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168306388.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168306410.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168306431.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168306446.jpg
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Chuck,
Did you switch floats to confirm one float is leaking? Are you comparing float height with the same qty. of fuel in each bowl? Sherwood |
No I didnt Sherwood ,But I sure will now and check things out thank for the tip!
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shake it to see if there's fuel in it. otherwise it's probably fine.
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Its tuesdaynight 1 9 07 Hi Sherwood and JW checked the floats again.I switched floats put the top of carb back on and activated fuel pump to 2psi.looks like both floats are fine but the problem still is with the #1 cyl float blow as seen in pics. Its not holding the same qty of fuel and is leaking out faster than the middle bowl.also the switch float is sunk like in the pics. what now? I watched this with the carb top off took about 2mins. Thanks Chuck.
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Chuck,
Not to assume too much, but the float (fuel level) can be adjusted one or two ways. 1. Bend the float tang where it contacts the float needle valve assy. However, since the needle valve assemblies are located in the top casting, you'll need the Weber mechanical float measuring jigs for a rough setting: http://www.pbase.com/911r/image/24149948 Jig C replicates the desired position of the needle valve assembly. Once the float is in position, Jig D measures the float height relative to the gasket surface of the bottom casting. Bend float tang to adjust. 2. Add or delete spacers under the needle valve assy (item 3 in this illus.). Minor float level adjustments are possible with these spacers: http://www.pbase.com/911r/image/24149867 Verify with the PMO external float gauge. (The above illustrations are scans from the Weber rebuild booklet. Website courtesy Ernie Wilburg) You have to determine whether it's a faulty float or just a mechanical adjustment. "Its not holding the same qty of fuel and is leaking out faster than the middle bowl.also the switch float is sunk like in the pics." Did you check the fuel level with the PMO float gauge? From the low float in the bowl, it looks like the fuel level is low, but we still don't know the cause, float or float adjustment. Can you explain more details about "leaking out faster than the middle bowl"? Where is it leaking? Sherwood Hope this helps, Sherwood |
you can't watch things with the carb top off. how is the float valve supposed to shut off the fuel flow then?
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I need to get a PMO float gauge .Regarding the leaking as mentioned, to clarify things it was the bowl itself drainning out as i watch for 2 mins. seemly faster then the middle float. Obviously not to scientific on my part. JW your right I was observing fuel levels after I reach 2 psi shut power off then took a look. Iam guessing it could be a faulty needle valve. Could I just swich valves around to see what happens? thanks Chuck.
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Thanks agian for all the help I will keep you updated
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