Rotor stuck to hub......

[Monza_dh]

Middle of brake project and drivers side rotor is stuck to the hub. I've tried PB Blaster, hit it with mallet, wood, etc.

What else would work?? Heat??

I've searched and searched but couldn't find the same scenario.

Thanks!

[mackskibum]

If you have an air hammer with a flat hammer attachment- working around the center of the hub with intermittant blasts will loosen.

[Monza_dh]

Thanks Mackskibum but I only have hand tools with torgue limited to my right arm. I may bring it down to the local shop and have them give it a try with more industrial power.

[mackskibum]

Sorry. Thought maybe this might get you a new "toy" er tool for the shop. You could try using a blunt object like a 1/2" socket extension and a ball peen hammer in the same pattern- working around the center of the hub, smacking it pretty good. Wear safety glasses in case the rotor lets a chip fly. What has happened is that the rear face of the rotor has rust bonded to the hub. Setting up vibration (intense) generally will loosen. FYI- an air hammer (chisel) can be had for less than $30 from a few places if you already have a compressor.

Good luck

Dave

[Black968]

Heat is your friend in this case. Heat the rotor with a propane torch (3-4 minutes or until rust starts to smoke). Then tap the rotor in a circular motion. That should free it up.

Cheers

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

Absolutely. Heat, way hot heat, is the way to go. Heat some, pound some. Heat some more, pound some more.

[Joe Bob]

Heat it up....bang on it, pour beer on it, drink beer, heat it up again...repeat as required....

[Monza_dh]

Thanks all. Heat has helped with a few recent projects (tranny plug, 02 sensor, caliper bolt) so I'll get to it in the am. For some reason I have used it as a last resort thinking I can muscle everything.

I do think its time for an air compressor though! After the brakes I am good for a while.

[JP911]

Front or rear? If it's the front, first make sure you've removed the bolts holding the rotor to the hub, then put the hub on the ground on a small wood block (back side down) and start tapping the rotor. If it's the rear, did you remove the set screw? Is the e-brake on?

[rfuerst911sc]

When you do get it off put a thin coat of anti-seize on the flat surface of the hub so when you mount the new rotor years down the road it will come off.

[Monza_dh]

Success this am!

It was the front, and as stated above the bolts were off. I heated, cooled, heated, tapped, cooled etc and then added a little PB Blaster and it finally came off.

now on to the rebuild. I'll post a few pics since one piston looks marked up.

Thanks again!

[Joe Bob]

Did ya cool it with beer?

[movin]

As I recall the factory applies some sort of coating between the steel rotor and aluminum hub to prevent the corroesion that is typical between such dissimilar metals. Sometimes this coating can sort of glue the rotor to the hub. Applying anti-seize compound during re-assembly seems like an alternative that should accomplish the same thing without being a PITA later-on.

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

Anybody who switches from summer to snow tires seasonally can also experience this to a surprising degree. It's sometimes incredibly hard to get your summer alloys off the hub just to get the winter wheels on, and I always use anti-sieze between wheel and hub.

[89911]

If it's a rear brake, take the small phillips set screw that is usually there and place it in another hole that does not have an accompanying hole in the drum. Screw this against the hub and it acts like a lever to push the brake off the hub. Works all the time.