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BRose
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73T Hard Start

Okay, I had a small crack in the airbox, applied silicon and I do not backfire anymore, especially now that I have fixed the throttle lever (thanks to the forum). My WUR was pressure tested and okay, but in order to start, I turn the key without the throttle let it die and then use the throttle lever on second start (mechanic recommended procedure). It takes time for the revs to come up even with the throttle lever lifted to the 2k rpm point. Warmed up of course its runs great. Is this funky start up procedure characteristic of the older 911's? My model has the first CIS (1973.5)and the WUR is original. I understand their is an update on the WUR and someone suggested I go with that.The difference between the older WUR and newer update is the added vacuum lines. Or is the WUR really my problem? I did replace the fuel accumulator and filter recently as well as a complete tuneup. I remember in my '79SC when I turned the key and those six cylinders sparked up and off I went.....
This does not seem right!!!

BR
1973T

Old 11-16-2000, 04:43 AM
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marc weintraub
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No, this is not a feature of the early cars, at least not in my experience. The primary difference between your "T" and my cars (1967"S" -1973"S"), however, are that I have the MFI on my current cars and have had the weber setup in the past. Neither one of these setups were a problem in my situation. The CIS could be a very different story, but I am not familiar with that system.
Old 11-16-2000, 08:01 AM
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tog
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Long ago, I had a 74 with CIS...
don't remember any funky start procedure like you are describing --- my 74 was like my 82 SC is now --- start and go! (though the 82 doesn't have a manual choke lever anymore and adjusting the choke on the 74 was required a little on cold mornings as I started and went --- still not as complicated as your procedure)
Old 11-16-2000, 05:46 PM
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roGERK
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Hello.

Sorry but there is definately something wrong here, in fact several things wrong.

Start Procedure

1) Gently pull the hand throttle lever up as far as it will go.

2) Push in the clutch pedal (optional but recommended).

3) Turn the key.

NOTE: Do not touch gas pedal at any point in the above procedure.

Car will normally start first time, and whizz up to about 3000 rpm immediately. Now gently push down on the throttle lever until you get a "fast idle" say about 1100-1300 rpm.

PROBLEMS

A) Your hand throttle needs adjusting so that you get around 3500 rpm when the engine is warm. Be careful when you adjust the hand throttle, as small throttle movements can affect the rpm quite dramatically.

b) The 73 and 1/2 911s have a cold start injector tucked away at the back of the airbox. This is a swine to access, but you may have to replace it, since it enriches the mixture at low (winter) temps.

c) 911s are very sensitive to engine timing. many Porsche mechanics (IME) tend to set the timing a little advanced for good high speed performance and smooth high rpms. But if the timing is even slightly too far advanced, the starting and idling can be rough. You might want to make sure the dwell angle is within limits.

Though you don't probably feel like you have a good car now, rest assured - '73 1/2 911s are rather special and can prove a great and reliable ride once you iron the bugs out.

Good luck,

- roGER


Old 11-17-2000, 01:03 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)
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