drip rail removal

[sportline]

How can I found out what is necessary to remove the drip rails as per the RUF style? Just cut them off and grind smooth or? Does this cut out some of the wind noise as well, not worried about water from the roof as I do not drive in the rain.

Thanks

[Spede]

NO, NO, NO! You have to do it very carefully and weld the seam in as you go or you'll lose structural stability.

[TimT]

Its really a pretty easy if a bit involved mod. If you do you own wleding and bodywork its a cinch.

cut off old drip rail (rain gutter), i used a sawz-all




grind back existing paint etc. and clean the area. There will be sealer in the plies. I used a torch to burn away the sealer before weldings



tack weld every few inches


complete welding


bodywork





after colorcoating and clearing

[Les Paul]

I had a paint shop do mine 2 years ago. They were only going to charge me 500 to do it initially till I told them how it had to be done. It is now on its 3rd paint job in 2 years. Where they made all the spot welds eventually a spot comes up through the paint. Like a tiny tiny volcano. They said if it happens again they are going to braze it. I have my fingers crossed.

[Dueller]

While it crertainly looks cool as hell and probably decreases aero drag by .000034%, you might want to consider the trade off in a street car. I rode in a non-Porsche with shaved drip rails during a fairly light rain with the windows slightly open and got drenched. Its truly amazing how well these work to keep rain from coming in on you.

Still looks cool, tho....

[Les Paul]

I will admit it does cut down on wind noise quite a bit.

[rdane]

I agree, much less noise in the cabin. Never had a problem with rain. If not done correctly popped paint along the old gutter line and cracked seams are common.

Done correctly the idea was a more rigid unibody.

[randywebb]

we need to measure the twist in these puppies...

[rdane]

Originally posted by randywebb
we need to measure the twist in these puppies...

I think Porsche and then RUF already did that calculation
Makes enough difference that the paint can pop along the spot welds where the orginal folded gutter just flexes along its length.

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

There's enough twist that my windshield came loose last time I spun at Lime Rock, I'll tell ya.

[randywebb]

Ok, but how much is that in N-m/degree?

I'm working on Sherwood's table and will have something post in a short while...

[DUK]

I like the idea. PS Randy, We'll be able to tell you some of that info as soon as we get the 7-post up and running.

[Dennis Kalma]

I am going to do this to my '89, one difference though...I am getting a TIG welder guy in to do the welding...estimate is about $1000 for his time (plus mine as I have to do the trimming and grinding).

My thoughts are to have the tig make a deeper/nicer weld, plus he will be able to weld way better than I can with my MiniMig. With luck, no filler will be needed.

Also going to weld in the sunroof section (bought a cut out section from a non-sun roof car) and figure the risk of warping will be lower, give good welding practice as well.

I will post the pictures when the time comes, but I am very slow.....be patient!

Dennis

[DUK]

Dennis, I tried to tig this and I gave up after about fifty tungsten dippings. Whatever the sealer is in the joint is nasty and likes to jump onto the tungsten. I would try to burn or bake that stuff out before attempting tigging it. BTW my mig machine did not warp the metal as bad as I thought. There is only one place on the area that's more than 3 mils of bondo.

[sportline]

Thanks for all the feedback, now that we have seen the side view can you post a pic of what the front looks like without the gutter?

Who know there were so many interested in this?

[Dennis Kalma]

Originally posted by Duke Zink
Dennis, I tried to tig this and I gave up after about fifty tungsten dippings. Whatever the sealer is in the joint is nasty and likes to jump onto the tungsten.

I am assuming it is like 3M Drip Check sealer, which is nasty stuff. I guess I assumed when you cut away the rail and ground it flat that there would be no material left other than metal.....I gather that is not the case.....

Hmmm.....certainly something to consider....any chance it was paint bubbling up from within the joint or perhaps the zinc from the galvanized sheet metal?

Thanks hugely for the heads up...

Dennis

[rdane]

Seam is at the minimum spot welded, lead sealed and folded at the factory. Never seen anyone that has done one really excited to do another and even then price usually doubles

[ZOA NOM]

Originally posted by Dueller
While it crertainly looks cool as hell and probably decreases aero drag by .000034%,

Actually, I read that it significantly increases downforce on the rear wing by providing it much cleaner air. I believe the 935 measured an aditional 200 lbs of downforce as a result of the rain gutter delete.

[Dennis Kalma]

Originally posted by rdane


Seam is at the minimum spot welded, lead sealed and folded at the factory. Never seen anyone that has done one really excited to do another and even then price usually doubles

Ah, the lead is probably a big problem....I hate running into that crap when I just do regular welding, although I love it as a filler (the Carrera flares I added to my '75 had the seam leaded).

Just curious....what did it cost you in either dollars or welder's time to do the complete job?

Thanks

Dennis

[Fleming]

We had to replace a section of the rain gutter on the 67 because of a rust spot. There are three layers of metal that are pinched into that seam, two of which have a very thin layer of fabric, noise/squeek abatment?, the fabric held water and caused the internal rusting. It's right at the door post (B pillar) intersection. Rewelding in a new section gave us fits as the combination of lead and the tell tail of burnt fabric contaminated the weld from the adjoining pieces.

Has anyone else ran into the seam fabric in the newer cars?

Bob