(This) Driver's Education

I've just posted Quicktime Clips (and AVIs) of three laps from an open testing day I attended up at Buttonwillow. As a novice in his first year of Porsche driving, I'm trying to get a little better each time I go out.

In this last day of driving, I started working on heel-and-toe downshifting -- a rudimentary skill, I know -- but one that is new to me. After my second-to-last time out I got some very useful advice from listers about improving my driving (including the heel-and-toe stuff). Once again, I'd like to solicit any advice from instructors (or seasoned track drivers) out there who have the patience for one of these big files to download.

If the feedback gets posted here, it can probably help more than just me.

The most recent clips are at:
http://members.rennlist.com/jackolsen/BW-A.html

Thanks. I appreciate any advice.

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Jack Olsen
1973 911 T (3.6) sunroof coupe

I've found out that except for several instances, heel toeing can actually cost you more lap time. I'll give you an example that I've seen personally. You are coming up on a turn from a long straight. Your natural inclination is to accelerate to the very last instant until you reached your braking distance limits. This means planting your brake foot to get your car slowed in the correct speed to hold the next turn. Most drivers are unwilling to test these limits, (most likely because the failure is your car off course.) It takes a strong belief in you car and pardon my lanquage, Balls. Hard to come up with a term that decribes so accurately. I've found in my case that if I am heel toeing going in to a turn, I am braking much too early, negating the benefit. This is one area that I have found 911's superior. I can always catch faster cars in the bends at the entrance. In an area that I have seen heel toeing useful is getting your car into a lower gear while entering a turn. The toe on the brake before hitting the turn and then heel bliping the gas in the turn to get to a lower gear for higher exit rpm's. If you just do a straight downshift while turning, the engine compression braking the back wheels may start a spin. You would like the match the rpms up in the lower gear. Just my .02$. Believe me, I'm no expert, just wish I was.

I really must disagree. Heel and toeing is an integral part of driving quickly and smoothly; matching the rpms to the next down gear, etcetra. If you think you're braking too early, that also means you ca be on the throttle EARLIER, allowing a much quicker exit speed from the turn. Do not under estimate the values of rpm matching.
Jack, from the video clips I've watched, has an innate ability that, as he develops, will become absolutely phenominal to watch. I recommended that he work on his heel and toeing (LA is wonderful to work on these techniques, without worrying about loosing one's license), his hand movements on the steering wheel, and apply what he's learned on the track. I think he's going to become someone to reckon with.
Now, as far as discounting the heel and toe technique, drivers as far back as Ascari, Fangio, and (more recently) Stewart, can't be wrong!

Hey, one thing that we can all agree on is that I'm leaving my right hand on the gear selector (and off the steering wheel) for way too long. Got to get better at that.

Heel-and-toeing certainly makes the most conspicuous difference in coming out of very tight turns. At Buttonwillow, the front straight leads to a 90-degree left, where you drop into third, and then a very hard right turn where you scrub off a great deal of speed very quickly, and then can accelerate through second, third and fourth around a right sweeper and a straight. Heel-and-toeing out of that tight turn makes a phenomenal difference. You've got to brake like heck anyway, but it allows you to really launch into what becomes a gradual turn with very steady acceleration. When I didn't blip the throttle before coming out, I would unseat the car every time, make a lot of noise, break the wheels lose, and lose time.

Don's suggestions (along with MMarsh, the Pelican lister who rode along for me for a couple of sessions at Willow Springs) made a huge difference for me at Buttonwillow.

Although I will also agree with 89911 to the extent that there's probably a longer time-frame before heel-and-toeing will definitely show benefits in a situation like the end of the front straight on this same track. But when I followed a GT3 around it, I noticed him doing it (very loud exhaust) on every downshift.

Unfortunately, Buttonwillow is a track that heats up a Porsche very quickly, and my oil cooling scheme revealed it shortcomings for the first time. I rarely was able to do more than five laps (about ten minutes) without having to come in to cool down. Before the December testing days, I'm going to try and get a supplemental cooler installed.

And I'm also going to continue to put in as much time as I can practicing smooth deceleration and braking. It makes a big difference.

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Jack Olsen
1973 911 T (3.6) sunroof coupe

[This message has been edited by JackOlsen (edited 11-20-2000).]

And by the way, Don, thank you very much!

de nada. just go FAST!

Sort of my point.

Jack,

Sorry to be a bit off topic. I was wodering what kind of safety upgrades you have done. i.e. roll bar, extinguisher, 5 point harness, etc . I am interested in getting my 81SC out on the track after some improvements. BTW you have done a great job.

Andy
'81 911SC

Thanks, Andy. I haven't done a roll bar. But I have a harness bar, and plan on getting a five point harness put in before the next time I go out. I've also got a halon fire extinguisher that mounts down in front of the driver's seat that should be put in before the next event, as well.

So until now, a good helmet and stock shoulder belts have been my only precaution. I'd be the first to admit that this is risky with a car as old as a 73. My car is light, in part, because it predates crumple zones, chassis reinforcements, air bags, etc., etc.

It's often occured to me that -- while most tracks require good roll bars for open cars -- my older model would probably be as deadly as a convertible in a serious flip.

Maybe I'm wrong. Anyone want to reassure me?

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Jack Olsen
1973 911 T (3.6) sunroof coupe

Safety notwithstanding, a good harness is necessary for performance driving to keep you anchored in the seat otherwise you go sliding around.

Nice footage Jack. What would be really cool is if you could somehow get a view of your feet and the shifter during the driving. But you would probably need another camera to do that.

The videos of the track are very impressive. I wish there was someplace close in maryland to do this kind of thing. I don't know if I would or not. :-) Its my baby,,, Heaven forbid I do something unthinkable!!!!! Jack, credit goes to you for having the NADS to take that beauty out and risk it,, but I guess thats why you built it. :-)

THERE is somewhere close to Maryland. It's called Summit Point, and if you're a member of either the Potomac region, or the Chesepeake region, you can join us there and allow us to scare you pretty well. We run a very safe, controlled, FAST driver's education program (to the extent that it's continuously oversold, everywhere we go). Visit www.pcapotomac.org for more info. By the way 89911, smoothness in the cockpit (including heel-and-toeing) is the path to FAST.

[This message has been edited by DonNewton (edited 11-21-2000).]

89911,

You problem stems from not being able to heel/toe quickly and efficiently. Just keep practicing until it becomes second nature. After a long straight is one of the areas where you really need to h/t. You should be able to late brake as deep as possible, trailbrake and h/t with plenty of time. I recently had some hot laps in a formula car which brakes substantially quicker and shorter than a 911 and h/ting wasn't a prob. In the beginning as you're improving, skip gears like Danny Sullivan does. eg. 5th gear to 2nd gear, instead of 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd. Some people like the rhythm and feel it makes them less prone to mis-shifting by going through all the gears, but a lot of fast guys also skip gears.

Hope it helps!

Has anybody used the gas pedal extensions that supposedly make heel & toe easier by bringing the pedal closer to the brake? Do they help?
I’m a tall guy and hate to put anything on the pedals as I am worried it will shorten my already tight leg room (don’t laugh, thin socks make a difference, and I already moved the seat back)
I am getting better at the heal and toe with practice, just wondering.
Regards -Andy

Jack,
After reviewing the footage, it appears that you are apexing quite early and as a result as you get faster you will start to drive off the track and into the farmland. I would recommend taking a late apex line for now and as you build up control and understand the way the car handles under different loadings you can start the turn in sooner. Try to ignore the apex markers and shoot for your own apex a few feet later. Do not trail brake the car yet.

Jack,

Thanks for the response. Look forward to your progress/success on the track.

Andy
911SC

Okay, dumb question time:

Whats trail braking?

Also when you H&T do you actually use your heel?
I *think* I've heard some people say they use the side of the foot to blip the throttle?

And also why should you go through the box when changing down instead of going to the gear you want?
I assume the answer to this one is because it's smoother and unsettles the car less?

It's a shame we dont really have anything like drivers ed in the UK, at least as far as I know.

thanks, Alex



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911 2.7S Targa
email:alex@cascade.f9.co.uk

Hi Alex,
Trail braking (as opposed to braking in a straight line) is when you start to turn in before all of your braking is done, taking advantage of the fact that the front wheels are loaded very heavily and thus you can adapt your understeer by modulating the amount and severity of the braking/turning. It allows you to brake later into the turn and it is combined normally with a heel/toe downshift. Because you are introducing lateral weight transfer during braking it is considered an advanced technique. Because of the rear suspension design the 911 responds to this maneuver especally aggressively.

As far as heel/toe I prefer the classical approach (ball of foot on brake and heel on accelerator). Others seem to favor side of foot on the gas. I have never had a problem doing heel toe on the Porsche (911/914) pedals but it seems difficult in other cars. Of course the Porsche pedal cluster is adjustable.

Originally posted by Alex Counsell:
Okay, dumb question time:

Whats trail braking?

Also when you H&T do you actually use your heel?
I *think* I've heard some people say they use the side of the foot to blip the throttle?

And also why should you go through the box when changing down instead of going to the gear you want?
I assume the answer to this one is because it's smoother and unsettles the car less?

It's a shame we dont really have anything like drivers ed in the UK, at least as far as I know.

thanks, Alex

One thing I did to my gas pedal is to put another plate with spacer between to make my heel toe easier. Heel toe is essential to track driving. 1. It prevents the lockup of the driving wheels. 2. It preserves the engine. 3. It preserves the gear box. 4. It establishes a rthyme on the track for you.
Correct me if I 'm wrong. Trail brake is the braking period (easy on it) after you downshift, before you hit the gas and apex when you entering a turn.
Some people go through the gear box when downshifting, some people don't. I do. Just a habit and I think it's safer. I'm not going for a world champion here.
All downshift should be done before you enter the turn. Straight line braking only before you learn your car behavior, then trail brake.
Andy
'87 Carrera