Stripped valve cover stud - need advice please

[lespaul]

Well, I finished up my first valve adustment using the backside method (in my opinion, a fantastic method compared to the traditional way, which I tried. I think you have to be born in Stuttgart to have the right touch). After going around the second time and checking, I found each valve was set perfectly. Very satisfying. . . .

I then cleaned the valve covers, cleaned around the engine and proceeded to install the valve covers with new gaskets and nuts with trianglar pattern and 4 ft/lbs to start - then to 5.9 ft.lbs.

But then - after a little resistance, one of the nuts just kept turning. Partially stripped out stud, which I could screw out of the case - but not pull out. PO left it like that.

Question, do I:

1. Leave a nut off (bottom right valve cover, second stud back from the front). Seems like it would leak, but no evidence of it from use by PO.

1. Use "threadlock" on the stud. Will it hold? Danger in permantely locking in a valve cover stud with "glue"?

2. Re-tap the case for a larger stud? I will do this if I must, but I don't like the idea of drilling any holes in my engine . . .

What would you do?

[Vin-barrett]

I think a heli-coil would be ok

[John Brandt]

It couldn't hurt to try red locktite first, it might work fine since its such a low torque fastener If it doesn't work, no worries, there's no such thing as permanent,you'll tap it out anway to do a helicoil or double sided stud if thats necessary

[lespaul]

Thanks Vin and John. I will try the locktite first and then go to helicoil if that does not hold.

John -- I grew up in Westerville, OH -- not too far from where you are.

[felix_browne]

had the same thing happen to me. cleaned it all off really well, locktite and a year and a half later no issues.

[lespaul]

Thanks Felix. Sounds like locktite is the way to go.

[JackMan]

For this newbie, are you guys recommending putting locktight in the hole where the screw will go? Then you put on the gasket, put on the valve cover and tighten up the cover?

If this is the case, how hard/dififcult will it be to get the screw out again?

[SP2]

Originally posted by JackMan
For this newbie, are you guys recommending putting locktight in the hole where the screw will go? Then you put on the gasket, put on the valve cover and tighten up the cover?

If this is the case, how hard/dififcult will it be to get the screw out again?

Who cares? You don't want it to come out unless you damage the top threads. If you want it to come out you could just heat with a torch briefly, then use a SnapOn stud removal tool to grip the M8x1.25mm threads and remove.

[John Brandt]

You don't just squirt the locktite in the hole, you put a bead of it on your already double nutted fastener (stud) and then you screw it in immediately until it just stops. Don't put any real torque on the stud or you'll ruin whats left of the delicate aluminum threads.

[Nostril Cheese]

I've done things like this before. The key is to get everything as clean as you possibly can. Then a bit of loctite or JB weld if it's really bad. Of course, you wont get the JB weld out again unless you drill it.

[scarceller]

Very common problem, I have had more than one stud do this on my (now sold) 75 911. I agree, try RED locktight first and see how it goes, re-check the bolt after a few drives with the car cold. Also, someone already menioned 'who cares if the stud ever comes out again' this is true till you need a rebuild. At that point it could just be heated and removed. So with that said: I have also epoxied a really bad stud in place and that worked just fine as well, you could try this if the locktight fails.

Finally, the harder but best solution is to put a TimeSert in, these are not helicoils! In my oppinion they are much easier to install and much stronger. see: http://www.timesert.com/
If I recall correctly, I think the studs are 8mm. I have done these studs with TimeSerts with engine in car, it's not that hard just place a oil soaked rag around the stud area while you work to catch the fine metal chips produced by the procedure. For really bad studs this is the best solution.

[lespaul]

Last night, I cleaned out the hole with carb cleaner and a rag on the end of a screwdriver. Then cleaned the stud. Put the RED locktite on the stud and double nutted the other end and drove it home.

Tonight - after 24 hours to set, I will see how it held and report back to all. Thanks for the good advice.

Brad

[Kemo]

subscribed.

[scottb]

subscribing

[lespaul]

After 24 hours, I tested the stud installed with RED Locktite. Worked like a charm. Withstood 5.9 ft lbs torque when I put on the valve cover. Felt very solid.

Thanks to all for your advice. This was a cheap and simple solution.

Brad

[scarceller]

Originally posted by lespaul
After 24 hours, I tested the stud installed with RED Locktite. Worked like a charm. Withstood 5.9 ft lbs torque when I put on the valve cover. Felt very solid.

Thanks to all for your advice. This was a cheap and simple solution.

Brad

That's great news and most likely your stud if fixed. I would double check it in a few days after several warm up cycles.

Glad it was easy as RED Locktight.

[lespaul]

Thanks Sal. Good suggestion.