Last questions from me on front suspension pan replacement

Shuie · 11-11-2003, 07:41 AM

Ive got the old pan drilled and cut out. Ive almost got the new pan fit, but im running into a small problem.

Using the measurements I took from the suspension points initially, the front lip of the new pan is about 1/2" short of reaching the front bulkhead behind the bumper area where it was originally spotwelded in place. Were the pans different after '73? I knew the lateral supports on the drivers side differ, but I thought the pans were all the same.

This is more of a fundamental sheetmetal fitting/beating question than anything else. How do you guys do the final fit of the really tight areas where these panels dont exactly line up? Ive got a mallet that Ive been using to tap the pan in place as I go along. The fit is near perfect, but there are a few areas that still need some work. Is there a special hammer or tool that I need to get it exactly right, or should I just keep hitting it with the mallet until it fits?

Any help is appreciated.

s_wilwerding · s_wilwerding's Garage

Are you replacing both the gas tank support and the front pan? The gas tank support overlaps the front of the pan part, and it may be that you cut both out but only have the pan replacement piece.

I can't answer your second question as I didn't do my pan replacement myself.

Shuie · 11-11-2003, 08:02 AM

Thanks for the quick response Steve. Im replacing the front tank support along with the pan.

The part of the pan that seems to be falling short is forward of the area where the tank support and pan overlap. When I line the new pan up using use the measurements I took from the original suspension points, there is a ~1/2" gap between the front bulkhead and the front lip of the pan.

Does anyone have the measurements between the suspension points handy? Maybe I screwed up when I measured them initially.

This is a trial fit at the moment. Im going to bolt the crossmember and the a-arms back up to the car and pan to use as a jig to better see how off my measurements are.

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks again.

BK911 · BK911's Garage

When I did my pan, the front bulkhead moved out slightly because of the grinding and chiseling needing to remove the old pan. I used a hammer and dolly to put it back in place. Just verify the new pan is exactly where it's supposed to be before you start welding. If you have to beat the front bulkhead slightly, so be it!

Good luck!
BK

Series900 · 11-11-2003, 11:04 AM

19.5 " , from a front bolt to rear bolt, the aftermarket panel will need to be coerced forward to meet the bulkhead. After rough fitting of the pan, it would be a good idea to reinstall the suspension, self locating jig! You will find the diagonal measurements a useful mark, within and 1/8th is off by a 16th, good enough. Big C-visegrips will suck the panel forward , use a couple of self tapping screws to hold it and check out the rest of your positioning.

dtw · 11-11-2003, 11:12 AM

I agree with the above. I would underscore the importance of diagonal measurements as a check. While your front to back measurements may be spot-on, the diagonals can help identify if you have any runout in the vertical dimension. Investigate even small discrepancies in your diagonals.

My pan also required that the front lip be bent forward a bit to meet up with the nose. When I did so, the lip lined up with the marks that the old pan had made against the nose perfectly.

I concur with bolting up crossbar and a-arms to check measurements. I would also suggest that after doing that check and tacking the pan and tank support in place, you consider checking the fitment of your gas tank.

Shuie · 11-11-2003, 11:58 AM

Thanks guys.

Wow, I had not even considered the possibility of the tank not fitting. That would interrupt the flow of things. Its a new replacement tank, so I will definitely check that out once the pan and support are tacked in. Thanks for the heads up.

g rad · 02-01-2007, 01:52 PM

I know this is a bit old, but I found it most helpful in fitting my replacement front pan, and the apparent gap between it and the front old panel... thanks, george

surfdwn · surfdwn's Garage

Mine was the opposite. The front lip was a little too long. Like the others, I just bent the fron lip back to fit correctly after settting th geometry and bolting the suspension to the pan.

David Nolen

g rad · 02-03-2007, 02:23 PM

some ware in one of the many threads on this topic,, I red that the distance form the outside hole of the front anchor points, to the aluminum cross member bolt ( on each side) was something in the area of 19.55" ...ish.. When I push the new pan back that far some of the old v new contours didn't match.. I think I'm going to pound the metal to match. As long as the black Weltmeister poly graphite fit in the middle of the front anchor housings I'm happy.. with the lateral settings of the a arms... hope this makes sense.. g rad