Exhaust Stud Removal

Well the torch work on all but two studs. Broke two stud that were partialy rusted through. The nuts were hardly hex shaped anymore from the heat and rust, I was amazed they came off.

I read the previous threads about welding a nut to the stud and using a snap on stud removal tool to get the stud out. About a 1/2" of the broken studs are sticking out. Before I attempt to remove them any words of wisdom. I want to do every thing I can to avoid disassembling the engine to have them drilled.

Thanks, Todd

There will probably be some good advice to follow that may help to get them out WITHOUT drilling.
But, if all of that fails, drilling them out without disassembling can be done. I've done it numerous times with a hand drill and WITHOUT having to use TimeCerts or helicoils, I've gotten pretty good at it and I've got a steady hand but it's not for the faint of heart and the other guys roast me every time I say it can be done at home with a hand drill. Since I haven't missed yet, I'll keep doing it my way anyway.... OK, guys, now give him that other better advice!

I'm not gonna roast anybody for saying that. studs can be drilled out at home. The Snap-On extractors are best, in my view. but wiht a half-inch sticking out, I am optimistic you will avoid drilling.

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Santa

HEY! Santa! Back to work in the toy factory! You got no time for this! I've finished widening my chimey flue and hearth to 8'x5' just for your special delivery! I EXPECT my new Porsche Turbo to be here on Xmas eve. Now get crackin' !

the only Right way to fix the problem IMHO is to remove the stud then use a new stud AND a time cert, you can use a small dremel or die grinder to get the old stud flush if it cant be removed by the usual methods then make a simple jig to make sure that you drill straight and true, then install time cert and new stud, I think that the header manifold tends to warp which put a lot of stress on the studs, combined with the heat and corrosion, tend to make this a problem area with original studs, I did all of mine on 930 turbo in one afternoon and no problems since!! Good luck and email me if you need info on how I made the jig

I broke one stud also with 1/2" sticking out. Are the both inside studs, next to the crankcase? If so, no need to drill. See if you can find a collet-style stud remover. If you break an outside stud you will not have enough room to use the stud remover. I borrowed one from a guy who's owned and worked on Porsches for years. His was made by Snap-on. It looks like a very large 1" socket with a bolt in one end. There are a set of inserts which are threaded to match the stud you're trying to remove. In your case 8mmx1.25. You put the insert into the collet, thread it onto the stud, and start tightening down the bolt. The bolt pulls the insert into the tapered section of the collet body, which forces the insert to tighten around the stud. I used a torque wrench to tighten the collet to about 80ft/lbs. Any less and it just unscrewed right off. I also heated the stud several times before putting the collet on. Its also a good idea to tighten slightly to break it loose before trying to remove it.

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Greg
72 911S

[This message has been edited by ggalloway (edited 12-03-2000).]

Thanks for the information. Looks like I'll go see the guy up the street who drives the Snapon truck. Greg thanks for the specs on the exact tool it will sure help get the right one.

tog-- I used to work at a machine shop that specialized in building speed bikes and have hand drilled a number of studs out. I wouldn't roast you, if you are confident about your ability to do it...why not. Just like breaking off the stud, If you mess up drilling it you only have yourself to blame, right.

Thanks again,

Todd

I am in the same boat. However, I have all of my studs out and cannot find a place that sells new ones. jasonborkowski@hotmail.com

ACE hardware had a pretty good assortment of 8mmx1.25 studs. Of the five studs that I removed in the process of removing the heat exchangers, 3 of them had a bare middle section and the other 2 were just threaded all the way. I took both types over to ACE to find the closest match. I found ones that were also threaded all the way but a few milimeters longer than the old ones. They will bottom in the hole. If used with a barrell nut you may have to put one or two flat washers under it to keep the barrell nut from going on too far, otherwise you won't be able to get the allen key in deep enough. If used with the copper nuts it won't matter.

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Greg
72 911S

You can get the OEM German studs made by Wurth at http://www.wurthusa.com. If you fix your own Porsche you should check out Wurth products.

ToddSteele---
right

ggalloway---
I got mine from Darren Bond at Pelican. Probably not the cheapest way to go but at least they are the correct ones.

[This message has been edited by tog (edited 12-03-2000).]