Oil Pipes & brake pipes

I have the engine out of my 1980 SC to fit a
new clutch. I had to cut thro the regulator to solid oil pipe as the nut at the solid pipe end wouldn't free up. Any clever ideas
for freeing it now that I have access with a 36mm socket? I have tried WD40 and heat!
Also I am replacing all brake pippes with copper ones. The rear pips are complete but the one running from fron to rear looks likek it runs inside the car. Are there problems replacing this one?

Malcolm,

I guess I don't understand why you didn't just remove the oil scavnege line from the left side of the crankcase.

One very serious cautionary warning:

Copper is NOT SAFE for brake lines!!! You can get a replacement steel line complete with fittings at any dealership parts department! It will be straight and you need to use a tubing bender to make any required bends. I don't think there is any great difficulty to running a new brake line through the tunnel that the shift rod and clutch cable runs through. I would think you need to 'start' the new brake line from the transaxle end.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Warren...thanks for the reply. On my year of
SC there is an oil pipe from a solid pipe to the regulator/thermostat as well as the scavenge pipe.There is also one from the regulator to the oil tank.

Over here all the classic car/restoration mags recommend replacing old brake pipe with
Kunifer (alloy of copper and nickel...I should have been more specific. Sorry for the confusion).