3.0 engine drop.

sixbanger · 02-28-2007, 07:34 AM

Sorry to say that this 78 3L. was abused. Took ir apart and found #5 rod bearing gone and all the pistons and cylinders gulled and scraped up. So whats the answer?

1 what to do about the crank What will this cost or should I look for a good used crank?

2 where can I find some good used jugs and pistons? Also what all of this will cost.

3 Will I be able to extract the flush broken off head studs at home with some help?

THX,
RT.

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

First, get Waynes rebuild book, that's where I started and it helped me negotiate machine shop prices easier, because you're going to need some work here.

The crank will need to be checked by a professional, if they can get it back to standard, or if it's in standard and just needs a polish you can go from there.

The broken head studs are also addressed in Wayne's book, again a machine shop is a good bet on these unless enough is sticking out to grab with vice grips.

Used jugs and pistons can be found on this site in the classifieds section, however there are solutions that offer very inexpensive new solutions. Pelican has some, EBS has re-plates, LN Engineering does as well, also lookup Supertec in the search system for more options.

In then end to do it right you need to do everything by the book if you can. I'm just about done with mine, I didn't have a spun bearing, but my issues were bad as well. I can tell you that every resource you need can be found on these forums, everything from cam work (Camgrinder on this forum) to machine shop services can be referenced here.

anthony 911 · 02-28-2007, 07:56 AM

why is it always #5 rod bearing on the 3ltrs?

sixbanger · 02-28-2007, 08:02 AM

I have his book. Just looking to find info on who to send the crank to. And where I might find pistons and the cylinders. And what to expect what I'll have to pay.

I was going to ask about #5 bearing and why.

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by sixbanger
I have his book. Just looking to find info on who to send the crank to. And where I might find pistons and the cylinders. And what to expect what I'll have to pay.

I was going to ask about #5 bearing and why.

Ah well I can give you some numbers on P&C's that I have, I shopped just about everyone, I'll round these up since this was a few months ago:

EBS:
95MM replates with 10.5.1 pistons $1760
98MM replates with 10.5.1 pistons $2500
(they had no used options for me at the time)

Supertec
98MM 3.0 > 3.2 conversion set $2430 Ebay item number: 8032565060

As far as used went I didn't have a lot of luck finding any, it's hard to find sellers that have taken the time to measure the sets out before they sell them.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

10.5 CR is the maximum for single plug, I would recommend 9.8.
No matter how you do it, it'll be expensive; $ 5k at best, more like 6-8.
Used P/C's are only good if they are in spec; hard to find.
A machine shop will be able to tell you if the crank can be saved meaning: either polished or re-ground to the next size.
Same for the rods; they usually get machined/re-bored and new brass bushings.
Figure on $800.- to do a valve job and shaving the heads.
Cams: Are they good, no galling?
It'll always cost more and take longer than expected.

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Gunter
10.5 CR is the maximum for single plug, I would recommend 9.8.
No matter how you do it, it'll be expensive; $ 5k at best, more like 6-8.
Used P/C's are only good if they are in spec; hard to find.
A machine shop will be able to tell you if the crank can be saved meaning: either polished or re-ground to the next size.
Same for the rods; they usually get machined/re-bored and new brass bushings.
Figure on $800.- to do a valve job and shaving the heads.
Cams: Are they good, no galling?
It'll always cost more and take longer than expected.

Yea, sorry about that, those compression numbers are of course for my custom application, I remember that the price was the same however for 9.8.

Kevin Taylor · Kevin Taylor's Garage

Anyone have any luck with Armando at CCR?
I was told that would be a good place to send a crank for repair.

K.T.
1973 911 E 2.4 MFI
1983 911 SC
1978 911 SC
1965 Devin "D" - 1967 912 Power Plant

sixbanger · 02-28-2007, 06:44 PM

I did some cleaning in the garage today and dug out another 3.0L. I had stashed and was looking at the pistons and cylinders and noticed that they have very little on the sides of the pistons. The cylinders have cross haching in some and some I saw none in others but that could have been the light though. What is concidered max ware on the piston sides and what is the ware limits for the cylinders. These look a hell of a lot better then the ones removed from the engine.

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by sixbanger
I did some cleaning in the garage today and dug out another 3.0L. I had stashed and was looking at the pistons and cylinders and noticed that they have very little on the sides of the pistons. The cylinders have cross haching in some and some I saw none in others but that could have been the light though. What is concidered max ware on the piston sides and what is the ware limits for the cylinders. These look a hell of a lot better then the ones removed from the engine.

I had cross hatching on my 146K mile cylinders, however they were still out of round. On top of that the ring lands were way out of spec. I guess my point is that you still need to have them measured.