More lighting problems...

My 100W H1's finally caught up with my light switch. I bought a used switch, and hooked it up EXACTLY like the old one and I installed the proper 55W bulbs for both the high and low beams. The new switch has one extra spade connector, despite the fact that I followed the connections of the old switch exactly.

OK, now for the problem: The new switch gets very hot and smells of buring electrics the second I turn it on. It does this with the running lamps as well as the headlamps.

Oh, what have I done? I need to fix this ASAP as this is my daily driver and I must drive home, in the mountains, in the evening...

per Bentley manual, there are 5 "pins".
Red is power into switch.
Grey/Black 2wires goes to L.
Grey/Red 2 wires goes to R.
a Grey and a Black/Blue goes to K.
White/Green goes to 57.
I have seen the reostat (variable resistor) built into the switch get rather warm, after all it works by converting the voltage drop into heat. The only way this could get out of hand is to try and dim the headlights which take a LOT more current than the guage illumination lights. Hope this helps.

George Wroclawski
83 911SC Cab/Euro
95 XJ6

VIPR, it sure sounds like too much current draw through the switch-you've either got an almost direct short to ground somewhere in the circuit that became overheated when your original switch went out, or a bad connection somehwere (possible in one of the wires near, or at, the switch) that increases resistance enough to heat up almost instantly-either way, it looks like you've got some wire tracing to do. If there's a fuse inline to the light switch circuit, and it's the correct rating and not blowing, then I'd look at all the connections first-a short (or near short) would take out the fuse pretty damn quick. Hope this helps...

------------------
Clay Mcguill www.geocities.com/the912guy

Okay, it seems to me you've experienced burning smell with three different switches that also get warm. I'd agree with Clay that too much current is moving through that switch. I'd suspect a short between it and the headlights.

Here's what I'd do: Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Trace and inspect the wires in question, all the way to the headlights. Using an ohmmeter (some beep when they stop sensing infinite resistance), see if one of these circuits is going to ground. Put one of the ohmmeter test leads on the circuit to be tested and just ground the other to the body of the car well. For example, with the headlights unplugged from the wiring harness, there should be infinite resistance whether the switch is on or off.

As you're inspecting, make sure the wires are connected to the appropriate terminals. I think you have a short and the thorough visual inspection may turn something up.

There is no e-mail button for you.

------------------
'83 SC



[This message has been edited by Superman (edited 12-23-2000).]

Hey guys what if he reversed the interior lights wire with the headlight wire.
None of the wires at the switch go to ground.No fuses are blowing due to excessive current but he might be sending the headlight current through the variable resistor (dimmer) and creating a positive smoke test.

George Wroclawski