The coil has worked, so I don't necessarily want to replace it. Just wondered if there was any valid reason to replace it with new while I'm in there.

What I mean by turbo is: I have an aftermarket turbo on the engine, low boost. Works well, just wanted to get a bit of retard without going to a 930 distributor. Now that I think about it, rootmatt is probably right on the spring issue. I think my total advance is around 29 degrees, but I don't recall offhand. I have it written down somewhere, as determined by my timing light, with the vacuum connected. The vacuum is another issue I just thought about today which may not function correctly due to vacuum line routing...boost may affect my timing.
Pat

My understanding is that the danger is always detonation.
CR, cams, octane etc, determine ignition timing.
I found that the SC distributors tend to advance too much in mid-range like 25-30 deg already at 3500-4000 RPM; not good.
The plan now is to have Steve Weiner recurve one to suit my engine. (SS 3.2, 964 cams, 9.8 CR, CIS)

Question of the day:
Anyone know which of the terminals gets the shield connection? My choices are A and B on the coil, with shield being 31d and signal being 7 on the 6 pin connection.

I'm rewiring the coax cable into the distributor; the old one was shot, I'm using some video cable, which I believe is RG-59.

Thanks!
Pat

I could use a good method for crushing the new pin for the gear. I have the correct Bosch pin now, and I crushed it in my vice, however it still moves...

Scott:
If you take the shaft and lay it on something solid, like a V block or partially opened vise, give the pin a few little whacks with a pointed punch, which should mushroom it a bit and take the wiggle out.

Where did you find a new pin?
Pat

I did that, guess I'm just being overly paranoid at this point. As far as the pin, my mechanic ordered it from Porsche, it was $1.99 and took about five days to get.

would it be stupid to do this with the distributor still in the car?

Only if you can define stupid as wondering why you tried to do this procedure after about five minutes:)

Why would you want to? It takes about 5 min's to pull the distributor out.

well i really would like to open it up to see if my weights and springs are intact and clean but i dont really wanna take the whole thing apart unless its totally necessary. Sooner or later ill do it. Probroly later

Its not the taking it out part that scares me. Its putting it back and having everything be correct the first time

Really there is not much you can mess up by following this thread. I found lateral play out by almost 1/4" and a disconnected advance spring. This thread has made a huge difference in the way my car runs.

Anyone got a spec for the axial play in the shaft? I have .7mm from the distributor body to the gear, with the two washers and phenolic spacer installed, although the gear wear pattern is pretty much in the center of the pinion gear.
Pat

0.7 mm axial sounds good to me.
The wear pattern tells the story.

Great, another project! :rolleyes:

But it should be easy with this thread.

thanks

What I did after work...
 

I only had a few leftover parts!:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1195003122.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1195003156.jpg

Actually, one tiny washer was leftover; may have been a stray from the bench.
It should work better, since I could barely turn the distributor by hand before this procedure.

Thanks to Dr. Gunter!!!

It could be the picture, however the star looks like it's not centered correctly. It looks like one of the tips is touching the outer ring. If the second snap ring pushes down the shaft when you install the star it sits too low.

Scott, it does look like it is touching, but it's not. The star points all have about the same gap as it rotates. Did I get the serrated spring washer in the right spot, between the rotor and the star? I forgot; it was a long time ago when I took it apart. It doesn't look right.
Pat

The spring washer sits UNDER the circlip as I remember, not on top.
As the star (with roll pin in place) slides down, it bottoms out in the right position.
Now there is just enough room to fit the spring washer and circlip.
You have to press down to make the circlip snap into place.
Also, I left the springs and weights in place while cleaning.
Do you know that the small springs are different from each other?
The heavier spring goes on the heavier weight and it makes a difference for the curve.
As for the roll pin: It should be visible in the slot once installed correctly. :)

Thanks, Gunter. I will change up the big serrated spring washer; your explanation sounds better than what I have. The springs are indeed different, so I made them such that the greater restitution force acts on the big weight.
Pat