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rfuerst911sc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Dahlonega , Georgia
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Question ball joint installation question

When installing new ball joints do you mount the ball joint into the A-arm first then install the strut housing? Or do you mount the balljoint to the strut housing and then install the whole assy? Or does it matter?

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Old 03-05-2007, 05:22 PM
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I think it's amatter of preferrence. If you do the former, you can use a floor jack to press the shaft up into the strut. The question is, do you have all of this off the car, or is the a-arm on the car? If off the car, I would install the BJ in the strut first, mount the strut and the arm and then connect. IMHO, never pound on anything that articulates, so do what is easy in the manner of using a soft force.
Old 03-05-2007, 05:49 PM
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I mounted the BJ to the A-Arm first. Then used the floor jack to lift the assembly into the strut, this slipped right in and there was no hunting for the keys.

You do need to make sure the key slot on the BJ pin is angled toward the center of the car.
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Old 03-05-2007, 06:21 PM
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Makes sense. But...

Can somebody with the factory manuals check them to see what they say?
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Old 03-05-2007, 08:01 PM
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Good advice. The A-arms are currently on the car but I'll be pulling them off to clean them up,paint and new bushings. So I'll probably be mounting the whole shebang outside the car. Is the A-arm,strut housing and strut inserts too much to handle in regards to installing/lining things up for one guy? Thanks
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2002 Boxster S . Arctic silver + black top/int. Jake Raby 3.6 SS engine " the beast ". GT3 front bumper, GT3 side skirts and GT3 TEK rear diffuser. 1999 996 C4 coupe black/grey with FSI 3.8 engine . Rear diffuser , front spoiler lip with ducktail spoiler .
Old 03-06-2007, 01:45 AM
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The hardest part is pulling the A-arms out. The rubber valcanizes and makes it hard to pull out of the chassis.

I used a wire brush and some 3M products to remove the old rubber bushings. The Emery paper to ensure I had a clean smooth surface before putting on the new bushings.

Reassemly is a one man job
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Old 03-06-2007, 05:27 AM
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Just did all of this last week. I had the A arms off the car, in a vice. This way I could get a proper torque on them (something like 180lbs). Then I mounted to the car (finger tight) and got the ball joint pin into the strut housing. One side slipped right in, the other I used a small floor jack with a block of wood. Raising the jack and moving the A arm around a little got it inserted without drama. I used anti sieze too.

I don't know what bushings you are going to be replacing with.......

I used the Elephant stuff and it is nothing short of amazing once it's all done!

-Chris
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Old 03-06-2007, 09:45 AM
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Yes I plan on useing the Elephant bushings. Thanks guys.
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2002 Boxster S . Arctic silver + black top/int. Jake Raby 3.6 SS engine " the beast ". GT3 front bumper, GT3 side skirts and GT3 TEK rear diffuser. 1999 996 C4 coupe black/grey with FSI 3.8 engine . Rear diffuser , front spoiler lip with ducktail spoiler .
Old 03-06-2007, 02:03 PM
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ok, in that case I have two recommendations:

Read through ALL of the instructions. Even though they already say to do that, I am a skimmer/look at pictures kind of guy and caught myself up on a couple of idiot things.

Second, TEST FIT everything before final assembly. Again, it's in the instructions, but seeing a new part on the bench is too much for me and I tried to install without test fitting. Guess what, it took twice as long since I had to take things apart again.

I DID get better/faster at taking everything apart and putting it back together again

rfuerst, I will be posting a small write up with pics as soon as I can get my act together. Everything is already in the archives/Chuck's instructions/Bentley/101 Projects, but sometimes another pic can help someone out too.

Good luck and if you run into any snags don't hesitate to ask.

-Chris

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1987 Guards Red Targa (sold)
2006 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4, the "man-e-van"
1998 CR500

Well on the fringe......
Old 03-06-2007, 02:37 PM
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