Car only starts when cold...

It seems to me that this is the starter solenoid since it, or the starter, gets hot after motoring around for a bit. Warm days can trip it up too.

Would you think this is the starter itself, or the solenoid?

Pretty hard to tell, but I suggest the same fix as in the following thread:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/Forum3/HTML/004732.html


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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

It would be wise to replace your transmission ground strap. They build p resistance and, especially when hot, can't flow enough voltage to run the starter fast enough. This strap is connected to one of the lower trans nose bolts on one end and to the back of the center tunnel at the other. It's only about 12" long and is braided and flat. It's the only real ground path back to the battery for the starter and is very critical for starter and some gauge functions.

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Tyson Schmidt
72 911 Cabriolet

Enging too, right. I mean that strap also carries ignition current, right?

Clean the battery and starter terminals, if they're not already gleaming.

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'83 SC

PROBLEM SOLVED! I finally got under there today and removed the starter and replaced the solenoid. I also greesed the starter per Warren... Anyway, I took her out for my daily errands, including numerous stops, and she performed superbly.

thanks fellas - you have saved me a fortune!

This post actually gives me nightmares from dealing with the 914.
That thing never started, and I tried cleaning everything, getting a starter relay, bla bla bla.
Turns out, the thing has a short god only knows where that constantly drains the battery if you leave it connected.
I chased everything down trying to fix that problem. Even removed the FI for carbs, dicked around and ruined all my gauge wiring, but at least replaced the bad wires. And after all that, the f'ing thing still has a short somewhere. Feel like blowing it up.
Anyway, it's in the back yard now, under a tree, disconnected battery, and gets started once a month or so.


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Kurt B
1984 911 Carrera Cabriolet
75 914 1.8

With the battery disconnected and testing for continuity (ohmmeter) you can find the short. Hook one test lead to a good ground, and test all the circuits. With various switches off, there shoudl be no continuity to ground. When you turn on those switches, the circuit (back to ground) will be complete and you'll have continuity.

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'83 SC

Don't forget, Kurt. Bad diodes in the alternator will drain the battery. Chech for continuity between the B battery terminal (with wire disconnected) and alternator case. There should be no continuity. If there is, replace the alt. or the rectifier bridge in the alt. Or if you can isolate the particular diode, replace it. Another systematic way to find a draw is to remove the negative cable from the battery and connect an ammeter between the negative post of the battery and the negative cale end. Then start pulling fuses until the draw goes away and you've isolated the circuit with the draw. It's a big time saver.

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Tyson Schmidt
72 911 Cabriolet

[This message has been edited by BRAINIAC (edited 12-29-2000).]

Just one point of clarification:

It takes two bad rectifier diodes, specifically, one in the positive array and one in the negative array ... to cause a very effective battery draining short! A single diode failure only reduces the alternator's current capacity by 1/3 of its' load rating.

This is NOT just theory, as I have encountered both situations, and located the diodes causing the problem, and replaced them. Problem was solved.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Well gee warren, I just assumed EVERYBODY knew that. (you're so TECHnical)

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Tyson Schmidt
72 911 Cabriolet