Engine Removal Question: CV Joint
 

I am in the process of removing my engine. All is going well, except the CV joint. I almost stripped a bolt on the passenger side but was able to get to off, the driver’s side seems even more tight. I am taking a break and thought I was asked a question prior to proceeding.

If you are unable to get the CV joint off on the driver’s side, I assume the backup plan is to remove the shaft from the wheel? Is this correct? If so, does this pose any other problems for removing the engine?

v/r
Wayne C.
83 SC

wayne, get a set of those SEARS "bolt out" sockets handy. when you strip one, and you will, that tool will make it a non issue. also i take some insurance and use a rubber mallet to tap the allen socket to make sure it is seated fully into the bolt. i think the years of crud prevents the allen from getting fully inserted.

Where are you getting stuck? Did you manage to remove the 6 bolts? And the circlip?

Thanks Vash...rubber mallet is a good idea.

M, it's the top and bottom bolts on the the driver's side CV joint.

I'm going back in...wish me luck.

Wayne C.
83 SC

I hope that doesn't mean you're not rotating the shaft to get better access to the bolts?

Wayne,

The first/best solution is to use a ½” impact wrench with a ½”
drive, 8 mm extended Allen wrench. You have to push hard
in before you pull the trigger. Make sure the 911 can’t fall
off the jack stands and if it does, you have a safety support.

Am impact wrench gives a rotational impact. You must supply
the engagement force.

An almost sure fire solution is an impact driver and BFH. This
gives an impact that is both rotational and into the fastener.
Here are the parts. I’m using SnapOn because their website
has good images – and great tools. The cost of these four is
$289.55.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1173557667.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1173557697.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1173557727.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1173557747.jpg



You take the wheel off, rotate the axle so the fastener is at abut
2 or 10 O’clock (depending on side) and support the extension
on the brake caliper. Doing this is a 2-person job. One person
holds the impact driver and uses the open-end wrench to heavily
torque the driver and extension in the “un-screw” direction. The
other person gives the driver a HEAVY blow. Little taps won’t
do. After a single blow, the fastener will usually unscrew.

I agree with the above, have extractors available.

Best,
Grady

Whoo hoo...got it! :D

Next stop ground strap and then it's time to drop it!

Thanks guys.

v/r
Wayne C.
83 SC

Hey Wayne - There are a couple of fellow Porsche fans in the area. I'm not a serious wrench by any means but I'd like to learn.
There is an engine drop and rebuild in my future on my 86 Carrera

If you need any help let me know.

Pete

pmillikin, thanks, I am almost done, just one more thing, but you are welcome to come over, I still need to jack the car up and remove the engine/transmission...give me a PM, I am in Escondido.

I forgot the big oil tube and of course it's stuck...big time.

Any suggestions.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1173564101.jpg

I have tried cresent wrench, bigger wrench and even added a BFH to both...what next? I have sprayed liquid wrench on it as well....may need to let it soak for a while.

TIA.

Wayne C.
83 SC

12-14 inch pipe wrench. Be careful

Lot's of ways to do the oil line, I use two large cresent wrenches.

pb Blaster or Kroil - spray liberally -- tap repeatedly (30-80 times); spray again; tap more

wait 24 hours; try wrenches; repeat Kroil & tapping; wait 24 hours

try wrenches with a metal hammer on one wrench (like impact)

then.. beat the hell out of it and buy a new oil line if that did not work

That's where I ended up...it was my only causality....not too bad considering my lack of skills.

I appreciate everyone’s help…gratuitous picture forthcoming.

v/r
Wayne C.
83 SC <-- engine out

There's a thread here somewhere about CV joints its very long, but very good. Read the part about cleaning the holes, new bolts, and Schnoor washers, using q-tips and brake cleaner spray to get the grease out of the holes and threads, and use a new allen head socket. Retorque after about 100 miles and again at 500 or you'll be fu(ked.