Valve Cover Removal - Help Needed

[dm36415]

Two questions - my 1st Valve Adjust

PO evidently used some sort of compound on upper valve covers, lower valve covers came off clean and easy with old gasket in one piece.

Question 1 - Upper valve cover on passenger side is stuck, can't seem to get it to budge, how can I break the old seal without damaging the cover or head?

Question 2 - Upper valve cover on driver's side came off (was able to find a good leverage point), but there is a lot of compound/old gasket stuck to head. How do I clean this off without getting gunk in the valves (or is this a big deal)?

Good new is, from what I've seen so far, all head studs are tight, show no sign of pulling.

[Gunter]

I would use a dinner knife with smooth, round edges and tap it into the gasket between cover and case.
Clean the old stuff off real good and don't worry too much about a little gunk falling in; the next oil change with a new filter will fix that.
Check the covers for warping by placing a large sheet of #400-grit sandpaper on a piece of glass and slide the covers over it.
If your lower valve covers aren't the upgraded turbo-type, get them, they don't leak.
My gaskets don't stick because I put antiseize grease on both sides before installing.

[dm36415]

Thanks Gunter,out of the frying pan into the fire.

Got the seal to break, now removal is blocked by (what I believe to be) the chain tensioner oit line (metal). Is it just a matter of removing that line? Anything special needed to reconnect it?

[Scott R]

Originally posted by dm36415
Thanks Gunter,out of the frying pan into the fire.

Got the seal to break, now removal is blocked by (what I believe to be) the chain tensioner oit line (metal). Is it just a matter of removing that line? Anything special needed to reconnect it?

Mine is the same way, if you loosen the bolt for the squirter you can rotate the line a bit and pull the cover back. Just remember to torque it back down again. I have neat little permanent oil trail down my driveway from my first valve adjust.

[Walter_Middie]

Good new is, from what I've seen so far, all head studs are tight, show no sign of pulling.

Great news! Your engine is in for a long health life.

Got the seal to break, now removal is blocked by (what I believe to be) the chain tensioner oil line (metal). Is it just a matter of removing that line? Anything special needed to reconnect it?

As Scott said, just loosen it a little. Mine was also in the way, but when I re-tightened it, I got it into a position that allowed the valve cover the clear it next time.

PO evidently used some sort of compound on upper valve covers

Don't use anything extra on the valve cover gaskets - like a silicon sealant. The little bit you get into the engine could clog the oil passages. If you are concerned about this, get the valve cover gaskets with the silicon bead already on them:
10-0906-092-M260

P.S. I keep reading about peoples first valve adjustment, and there is a lot of them that don't get the valves tight enough the first time. A lot of them recommend getting them too tight the first time. I don't agree. Try and get them as close to correct as possible. It may be that one or two end up too loose, you get a little valve noise, and have to go in and re-adjust. I would say this is just a learning experience and don't recommend getting them all too tight just because you might miss one or two. The first valve adjustment is always the most difficult and time consuming. Keep at it - you'll be a seasoned veteran in no time.

[Scott R]

I also meant to add the reason to just loosen and not ot remove is you're dealing with a lot of dirt and grime when you do this, if debris were to get into the cam spay bar during the adjust you would be in a world of hurt. I'm guessing on my engine that the PO did this and that's what lead the premature failure of my cams and rockers.

[dm36415]

Thanks guys, the (unknown) PO left me with many surprises I've had to deal with. Off the top of my head, I can name five unrelated issues which, each alone made the car undriveable.

Now it's off to Sears for a 17mm wrench for the tensioner line.

At least my toolset is growing nicely.

[randywebb]

clean up all the bits and pieces of whatever crap the PO used carefully -- you don't want it to circulate around in the motor's oil passages.

[scottb]

If you need to use something on the gasket to aid in sealing, you should consider aviation form-a-gasket. It comes in a little can with a brush in the cap, and you can get it at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc. It doesn't go on as liberally as a bead of silicone, and therefore it's less likely to squeeze out into the engine.

[randywebb]

BTW - do you know about sanding the covers flat? If not, hit the search button w/ those terms. The late model covers should seal just fine w/ no liquid anything needed.

[dm36415]

Fortunately I have not experienced any oil leaking from the valve covers, so I hope I'm ok. Have read a lot on that topic in preparation.