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Whats with all these #'s on my 2.7??
Here you see 9011051111R and then under the motor there is 911-101-101-7R
911-101-102-7R I though it was a 74 2.7 but I dont know what these mean. Also This was a great running motor, just looked dirty. What could I check for (Headbolts) before I reassemble?? Is this a better than stock clutch?? Thanks Nathan ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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The numbers you list are casting/part numbers for the various parts of your engine.
Before your drop the engine in your car, by all means, take the valve covers off and check your studs to be sure they are secure and adjust your valves. You should also inspect/replace the gaskets for the three connections (breather, pressure transmitter, and "other") in the top rear of your engine. These are known sources of leaks and they are easy to replace while the engine is out. That may be your stock clutch. Someone else will need to tell you as I do not know. What kind of fuel system are you installing?
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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I will remove the valve covers soon and check the studs. I dont know where these are yet (breather, pressure transmitter, and "other" in the top rear of your engine)
As far as the fuel system, I will most likely just reinstall the CIS. the motor is going into a 76 car so smog will have to be considered. I do need to check the studs as I know that in these 2.7's they can be a problem. Thanks Nathan Once the valve covers are removed, could I take a pic of it and see if there is anything wrong or would I need to dig deeper??
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1981 Delorean Last edited by artisticent; 03-12-2007 at 08:43 PM.. |
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Quote:
In your last picture, you have the "oblong thing, a round thing to the right and a small transmitter just above it". These need to be checked to see if the gaskets need replacing as they can leak and are hard to replace with the engine installed. Do you have any books? Haynes, 101 projects etc. They can be very helpful.
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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This shot provided by Rusnak (in this thread: My first engine drop: gratuitous pics) shows the parts (Parts # 1,3,5,43 in the diagram) I am refering to:
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Oh thankyou, that does help. I was just in Mt Angel acouple months ago with my Mrs. It even snowed for me. Anyway I just took off the valve cover upper and lower. Everything looks ok except where I took off the oil cooler to find a oil water mixture??
Hmmmm Thanks Nathan ![]() ![]() ![]()
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by the way, #5 the O ring was a killer for me in both p-cars.
Ill check that other stuff. Nathan
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Just looking at the head studs isn't enough...get the proper size hex key socket (can't remember what mm, someone else here knows) and a torque wrench and make sure they're close to spec. Broken studs can "look" fine but break off/fall out as soon as you try to tighten them.
Last edited by jkarolyi; 03-12-2007 at 10:46 PM.. |
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More numbers and head pics
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() also any thoughts on the look or how to check the head studs and on the oil/water mixture after removing the oil cooler Thanks Nathan
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911/82 confirms it is a 1976 911S with 165 hp. The engine number starting 626xxxx also confirms it is a correct engine for a 76 911S.
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Tony G 2000 Boxster S |
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personally, i'd run one nut down the stud, follow it with another nut and double torque specs, but that's just me
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Chris the more i learn, the less i know |
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