removing cams & heads

Well I've got the motor out and apart. Now I need to remove the cam housings, cams & heads. What do I need to remove the nut that holds the gear that drives the cam. I don't really want to buy a special tool for this since I will probably do it once or twice. any advice on taking this off?

I don't know what you're talking about, but I usually figure I'm saving so much money, that special tools are kinda free, even if I have to buy them. I'd answer your question if I could, but I don't know.

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'83 SC

There is a tool to hold the sproket steady while you loosen the cam nut. Listen, I think you really need a manual because there is an order to all this.

I don't think this bodes well for your project that you are in the process of taking things off and suddenly discover a large 46 mm nut that you are not prepared to handle! Are you going to be asking how to install the cams and what is needed to do it, in another month or so? Have you even contemplated the list of tools required to rebuild a 911 engine?

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

You can't rebuild a 911 engine with wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers and VICEGRIPS?
Well, that means I won't be rebuilding mine anytime soon.
!
But I empathize with 70911....he's attacking the problem exactly as I do, and although it'll take him a while to figure out what's going on, what's needed, and what to do, I'm confident he'll figure it out if he takes his time and posts the questions here.
By the way, how does he remove that nut?

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Kurt B
1984 911 Carrera Cabriolet
75 914 1.8

I am going through the same thing right now. I've never rebuilt a 911 engine before, and I sure picked a hellofa one to start with (930)!

The 46mm cam gear nut has a special crow's foot tool. You don't need it. An impact wrench will work. How did I figure this out? I asked a Porsche mechanic. That's the only way to learn! It will take me half a year to put this mess back together, but it WILL be done, and done right! Take your time, there are a lot of people at this site who can help.

I assume you have manuals or you probably wouldn't have gotten this far. If not - it's money well spent.

[This message has been edited by RarlyL8 (edited 01-05-2001).]

Yes, I do have all of the books. Bruce anderson's, haynes, haynes restoration manual. Maybe I didn't explain it well. I understand that I have to take the nut that holds the cam in while holding the cam itself. I also know that there is a porsche tool to do this. I am a machinist by trade and sometimes you can make a jig or something to get you by, that is what I'm asking. Can I fabricate something to go over the (wrench flat's on the cam itself), while removing the nut. And Warren I probably will ask you later for some pointers on re-installing the cam's.

Guys you gotta start on this somehow, and this is my first time.\

thanks for all your help

You don't have to 'hold' the cam to remove the nut ... and as Rarly said, an impact wrench and 6-point 3/4 drive 1 13/16" socket, or breaker bar can be used to loosen the nut! The flywheel and crank need to be secured, and no special tool is needed ... as Leland figured out, a double box-end wrench, or piece of angle iron with two holes drilled, one for a clutch pressure plate hole and the tranny stud. The only time the cam-holder is needed is to set the timing, once the pin is inserted, the holder is no longer needed ... torque-wrench time.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

The thought of a fresh 930 engine makes me salivate though!
I can imagine the ear to ear smile you'll have on your face when you finally install that sucker and take it for a spin!

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Kurt B
1984 911 Carrera Cabriolet
75 914 1.8

Well everyone must be rebuilding for the new year. I too just removed these same nuts on my 3.0 tonight. I used the 1 and 13/16 Warren told you of. The right side (4-6 cylinders) was easy as you can leave the tensioner in place and if things turn a little they all turn together and there is no problem. The left side (1-3) is a little tougher, I took the tensioner off and then used a clamp on the idler gear to hold the the chain tight. An impact works great in that the pulses tend not to turn the cams to terribly much. I was then able to take the woodruff key off the cam and remove the shims and ultimately get the chain cover off with a little more ingenuity.

My question is this: After having done all of this and then removing the 12 bolts which hold the "cam tower", (for lack of more precise nomenclature), I should be able to get the "cam tower" off?. I have not gone to serious blows on it yet. I can only assume the last person used some sort of gasket sealer that is holding this on rather snug. Or am I missing something? Any advice? Are those 12 studs fitted studs? Or am I just being too timid?

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78 911SC

David,

There is, indeed, sealing compound on the cam tower junction with the heads ... from the factory -- the same compound as on the crankcase halves! It is probably easier to pull the head stud nuts and washers off and pull the whole 'unit' of three heads and cam tower off ... then deal with removing one head at a time with the cam tower held in a Black & Decker Workmate or similar table.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Thanks Warren,
I'll give that a try tomorrow. I have plenty of time and I definitely don't want to rush this job and brake something. The motor has 220K, was running OK however oil leaks were starting to become an issue and I really didn't have a good history on the car although I am only the 2nd owner. (Records were not this guys strong suit).
To be honest I've rebuilt alot of engines in the past (of different varieties) but you can really tell this one is designed well just by how it comes apart.
This is almost as fun as building a turbine generator for a nuclear power plant, but 18 years of that was enough.

Again, Thanks for the advice and I'll check in tomorrow and let ya'll know how it's going.

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78 911SC

Just a tip for some fellow first-timers...I assisted in a rebuild of a 930 motor earlier in 2000, and it was a first rebuild for all three of us. Though my 2 partners in crime have taken the G&W Motorwerkes (East coast version of Anderson) course twice. Anyway, we got everything right. Oil return tubes, cam timing, ignition, injection, everything was great except for two mixed up plug wires which were quickly corrected. The part we messed up were the oil lines! And as you have found out on that 930 motor, there are a lot more of them on the turbo motors. The lines seem so delicate we didn't torque them super tight, and sure enough they sprang leaks all over the place. A round of frantic tightening and wiping oil off the gleaming engine, and everything was cool.

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

70911,

I have nothing to add, but some moral support!

Good for you for tackling your engine. We all have to learn. I too do all my own work. I gather all the info that I can, read it all, talk to people who have done it, then go for it.

For those of us who are mechanically gifted, don't let the profits of doom spoil your drive to achieve. Its most likely that we are all getting much better results doing the work ourselves than paying someone. I used to be a full time mechanic and I know about the pressures to produce, cut corners, and keep your turn around time to a minimum. If we do it ourselves, we can be assured that the time was taken to do things correctly.

Besides, if something goes wrong, who cares?
Its just a hunk of metal. There's nothing that some money and more time working and learning won't fix.

Best of Luck!
Nick.


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Nick Shumaker
1982 911SC Coupe

[This message has been edited by Nickshu (edited 01-06-2001).]

For the cam drive gear nuts, a simple socket with a breaker bar, along with locking the flywheel worked for me. For the heads, it's far better to take the heads/cam housings off first and then remove the heads one at a time as Warren describes.

I won. The heads are off in the basement in the workmate as Warren suggested. No worse feeling than taking those head nuts loose. I've heard better sounds at the dentist office.
All is well though and now it's on to the crankcase. Soon to be inspecting and then putting together the renewal parts list. So far the only casualty has been 4 sorry looking oil return tubes. (They were getting replaced anyway). Thanks for all your help...I'm sure I'll be asking for more.

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78 911SC

Well it all came apart with a 1-13/16" socket and impact wrench thanks for all the help. Now for the next stage of putting it back together.

thanks