Aftermarket Idle Control Valve 3.2 Carrera

[mikedsilva]

Has anyone come up with a reliable replacement for the idle control valve on a 3.2 Carrera?
I know they are no longer available, but with a little searching I have found some pretty cheap looking similar items online.
One of them was from FVD
https://www.fvd.net/us-en/93060616100EQ/idle-control-valve-stabilizer.html
I bought one from their local distributor here in Aus. When cold, it simply will not idle or stay running.

If I used my old original, it starts and idles at normal high idle speed. So I got the engine up to temp then switched in the new FVD valve.. and it maintained idle fine.

Waited till next day and switched back to FVD, and again, it will not idle or stay running.

So, I'm curious if anyone else has used one, or had success with something else?

Mike

[wazzz]

All I can say is that this one here :

https://www.autosensorberlin.com/en/shop/idle-control/porsche-en/porsche-911-iac-0280140501/

is cheaper than FVD, also comes from Germany, and I've read really good feedback from people who have installed it as a replacement.

However FVD is usually a very good and reliable source for us in Europe. Their products are mostly original or sourced from reputable aftermarket brands.

What you describe could be another issue related to some other component, like the head temp sensor.

Second thought: Have you checked and corrected idle speed with new FVD valve in place? You may need to do so by temporarily connecting A and C terminals under the plastic cover near the coil, then adjust idle RPM to spec by setting the throttle small screw.

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by wazzz

All I can say is that this one here :

https://www.autosensorberlin.com/en/shop/idle-control/porsche-en/porsche-911-iac-0280140501/


What you describe could be another issue related to some other component, like the head temp sensor.

Second thought: Have you checked and corrected idle speed with new FVD valve in place? You may need to do so by temporarily connecting A and C terminals under the plastic cover near the coil, then adjust idle RPM to spec by setting the throttle small screw.

Thanks for the suggestion, but my head temp sensor is measured and working within range.
Here are pics of my unit. Seems the same as the one in your link.


I have the car starting, idling and running well at the moment with correct AFR and idle mixtures using my old ICV....
I'll try bolting the replacement FVD unit back in tomorrow.. I didn't think the AFM should need correcting when the ICV is replaced?

[jjeffries]

I wouldn’t think you should need to retune anything else to work with this new component. Either it works in all temperatures, loads, etc, or it doesn’t.

John

[boyt911sc]

Mike,

You can bench test the ICV using a 9-volt battery to determine if it switching back and forth.

Tony

[G50911]

i used this one and had good luck with it...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154969040595?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110 01%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D201609081050 57%26meid%3D4a42808d7ab446909da1cee51212d825%26pid %3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D154969040595% 26itm%3D154969040595%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D23 80057%26brand%3DL%EF%BF%BDwe+Automobil&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ac4ee819c-e8f1-11ec-a1d4-32bd82af899b%7Cparentrq%3A4f0b81191810a1b738a954bd fffe839a%7Ciid%3A1

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Mike,

You can bench test the ICV using a 9-volt battery to determine if it switching back and forth.

Tony

hi Tony, thanks for the reminder.
I just tried 3v (couple of new AA in series) and it makes "electrical sounds" but there is zero movement in either direction.
It should move under 3v right? as it's a 0-5v operation range?

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by G50911

i used this one and had good luck with it...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154969040595?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110 01%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D201609081050 57%26meid%3D4a42808d7ab446909da1cee51212d825%26pid %3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D154969040595% 26itm%3D154969040595%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D23 80057%26brand%3DL%EF%BF%BDwe+Automobil&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ac4ee819c-e8f1-11ec-a1d4-32bd82af899b%7Cparentrq%3A4f0b81191810a1b738a954bd fffe839a%7Ciid%3A1

interesting... only a 2 pin?

[Matt at Pelican Parts]

A lot of times the original ICV just needs a good cleaning. They get gummed up and just need a good soaking in degreaser for a day or so.

It seems strange that your would need to compensate AFR or recalibrate something to run the aftermarket FVD one.

-Matt

[G50911]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

interesting... only a 2 pin?

i didnt even notice that. could just be a stock photo that they use?

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by Matt at Pelican Parts

A lot of times the original ICV just needs a good cleaning. They get gummed up and just need a good soaking in degreaser for a day or so.

It seems strange that your would need to compensate AFR or recalibrate something to run the aftermarket FVD one.

-Matt

Thanks Matt.
Yes, I have given the old one a thorough degreasing. It does work, but I find when taking off from a standstill, and the rpm are low, it will sometimes stall. Not sure if that is a characteristic of the tune/engine or if the icv is not opening soon enough to catch the low rpm.

As for recalibrating to suit a different valve, no, I wouldn't think that is correct either.
I think the new unit we received is defective or D.O.A.

There are a myriad of chinese made offerings on ebay.. guess I will try one of those.

[917_Langheck]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

There are a myriad of chinese made offerings on ebay.. guess I will try one of those.

You can even get them to send you a sample for $10 US! https://nbmidland.en.made-in-china.com/product/kvuxOclEvYrQ/China-O-E-M-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-3517067.html. Yes, been on this road too... Good luck Mike!

(BTW, check out that cross reference list!)

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by 917_Langheck

You can even get them to send you a sample for $10 US! https://nbmidland.en.made-in-china.com/product/kvuxOclEvYrQ/China-O-E-M-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-3517067.html. Yes, been on this road too... Good luck Mike!

(BTW, check out that cross reference list!)

so you've been on this road too!
what did you find out or settle on in the end? the sample?

[917_Langheck]

Mike, I never put money on the table for one, but I did the research because the Porsche tax on this part is too much when you consider it's the same part on the Volvo wagon!

I did what you, and many others have done - I cleaned it, and everything up stream of it. Then, most importantly for my situation - a surging idle at start up - I installed a new idle air mixture screw (the one under the yellow cap when they came new) and set it at about 1.75 turns out from closed - the old one was set at about 4 turns, so there was way too much air for the ICV to manage properly. No more surging idle, no low rpm stumble like you, though that wasn't one of my symptoms. (BTW, these service events were done at different times, so I am sure that resetting the idle air screw affected the way the ICV interacted with the air flow management, and wasn't just an coincidental relationship).

[alexandervdr]

i assume you know, and it may not relate to your problem, just to confirm: there is an arrow on the body of the ICV. Airflow needs to be in that direction.
I installed an aftermarket ICV on my 3.2 Targa, and all my warming up idle issues were gone, including some erratic surging once in a while.

[Nick Triesch]

I needed one a few years ago. Turns out that that model was used on a ton of cars from the 3.2 time. Took my valve with me to a local San Diego junk yard and brought me out one. $40 and car runs great.

[wazzz]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

hi Tony, thanks for the reminder.
I just tried 3v (couple of new AA in series) and it makes "electrical sounds" but there is zero movement in either direction.
It should move under 3v right? as it's a 0-5v operation range?

No. Normal operation is under 12V.
A 9V battery should be enough for testing, though I don't know if it can supply enough current, but 3V is way under nominal voltage and all you'll get is "electrical sounds".

Connect power+ (12V) at terminal 4 and alternatively ground terminal 3 and terminal 5 (not both at the same time). This should make the valve click in one direction, then in the other direction, ie open then close it.

Also note that a toast ICV (if internally shorted) may damage the DME by killing the ICV driver stage.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

hi Tony, thanks for the reminder.
I just tried 3v (couple of new AA in series) and it makes "electrical sounds" but there is zero movement in either direction.
It should move under 3v right? as it's a 0-5v operation range?

Mike,

The ICV test procedure was recommended to me by a well known member of this forum and it works. He is an expert in electronics which I know very little about. So try 9 volts next time you get a chance.

Tony