dissassembly of front suspension parts-Help-!!

Can anyone tell me how to get the front strut?shock tower off the A arm? Complete SC
suspension is laying on my garage floor, and I've removed the rack, brakes, sway bar, but this ball joint on the bottom of the shock tower is a real hum-dinger! I've removed that nut, and pinged it out--even applied torch heat!!
What's a guy gotta do hea?!!??

Thanks guys.................RsC

I would be happy to help as I have recently performed this service.. Unfortunately, I'm not clear on your problem, but here goes.

1) if you are trying to remove the strut tube from the front upright (hub assy), forget it.

2) if you are trying to remove the ball joint nut (circular with notches). I ended up using an angle grinder and cutting through it. I then was able to knock it off with a chisel. Killed the ball joint, but they were going into the trash anyway.

3) if the Ball joint nut is off, and the ball jount won't come out..(assuming you have the strut tube disconnected from the a-arm) don't know what else to say other than WD-40, heat, and a big hammer.

4) if the strut tube won't come off the lower a-arm. did you get the pinch pin out just above the a-arm/strut connection point?? If this is out, again, mallet, WD-40, heat. Mine were also stuck in this area and I used a propane torch. Further burning the grease out of my ground up ball joint), but again I wasn't concerned about this.

feel free to email me if I can be of help

Skip,

There is, in addition to a 13 mm nut and washer, either a 'Wedge-Pin' or an 8 mm pinch-bolt that HAS to be removed before you attempt to separate the strut from the ball-joint stud. Then, a 'Pickle-Fork' and mallet can be used to separate the strut, but the rubber boot of the ball-joint will be destroyed.
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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 01-10-2001).]

Scott and ol tex......

Thanks to your experiences, it has been a successful seperation of shock tube and a-arm ball J. Now.....What weird tool is used to
turn that castle looking thing underneath the ball joint??

Well, you could look at Pelican's pic at:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/ptoo/por_ptoo_miscel_main.htm

Or, I could dig out the one I made 15 years ago from a cheap 36 mm socket for VW axle nuts ... and send you a pic.


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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

If you don't this tool and don't want to buy it, you might be able to unscrew the ball joint ring without it. Apply penetrating oil and some periodic hammer blows for a few days, along with some heat cycling with a torch. Then heat it up one more time and go to work tapping at the grooves with a hammer and chisel in a counterclockwise direction. I got one out that way; had to take #2 to the shop. Nothing like a giant air compressor, the right tool, and an impact wrench.

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

Texs-dave, Thanks...

I was just eyeballing automotions mag. and found the tool. I have a big 36mm warren, and I think I used it on my old Ghia Gland nut.
I have a feeling you must have welded some pegs or something in there to act as teeth to do the catching...at any rate...thanks for the help...I'm "steering" (pun intended) in the right direction now!!

Skip in Va

Tlook, I would suggest buying the ball joint tool, using it, and then selling to someone else who is doping this job. I did the same thing with a turbo tie rod upgrade. Only took about 2 days to sell and I am sure you are not the last person to have to make this repair.
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Paul
78SC Targa911

Skip, that is very close to what I did. I believe there is a sketch of a 'homemade tool' ... either that or I got the inspiration from the homemade one for taking loose the Boge strut cap ... very similar tool! I ground down four flats on the 36 mm socket until the ID of the nut was the same as OD measured across the flats. Then I cut a 3/8" square-shanked screwdriver into four pieces about 1" long, and nickel-silver brazed the pegs onto the sides of the socket on the flats. A little grinding on the 'faces' of the four pegs to ensure engagement of all four slots of the nut finished up the tool ... total fabrication time about three hours! Good luck!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Skip.

If you don't mind changing the castellated nuts (which may be a bit corroded anyway), you can try a drift and hammer. BUT, you WILL destroy the nuts.

Dremmel tool to cut them off if you don't mind replacing both the nut and ball joint. Of course the special tool comes in handy for torquing on the new nut.