74 911 2.7 to 3.2 conversion wiring

[yel911]

Does anyone out there have a clue about converting to a 3.2? I removed all the components off the left side wall. All I have is the factory harness, 14 pin connector left. I have been referencing "Mark's 3.2 conversion from a 77 911" but the wiring seems a bit sketchy to me. Any advise would be appreciated!!!!
Thanks,

[78-911SC]

Moe the 14 pin connector that remains after you took out the 2.7 is the connector that the 3.2 14 pin connector will attach to. Some pins may change position but Marks site should be able to walk you through that. If you have any specific wire problems just post and someone will be able to help. Good luck it took me a couple tries on my 70T.

[yel911]

That's what I figued. But, the 3.2 harness branches out down by my DME and fuel relay etc. Do I route it back from the interior into the engine bay and up to the 14 pin connector? At first glance, according to Mark's comments, I thought the 3.2 harness HAD a 14 pin connector. It's starting to make sense.... I also noticed that Mark said he used 56 inches of wire, which tells me he's re-routing the harness. I was hoping to find someone else's link for more information. One more thing, Mark added to his exsisting harness to the driver side tail light. My harness seem different than his, cause my 14 pin conn. is where Mark's ended up, torward the shock. Again, I don't know if a 77 911 wiring differs from a 74 911. I'm learning.....

[len911]

From a very old email I've been saving for years... I hope it helps. Lou

Here's what you need ........

T 14 3.2 (88)

1 yellow / starter 50
2 red / source from alternator 30 ( or B+ )
3 green - black / Oiltemperature Instrument
4 green - red / Oiltpressure Instrument
5 red - green ( depends on year ) / from ign. to backuplightswitch
6 gray - brown / backuplightswitch to lights
7 free ( used with Turbo )
8 brown - black / temperature switch for the fresh air blower
9 green - white / Oiltempressure idiot light
10 free ( used with Turbo )
11 blue / alternator control light 61 ( or D+ )
12 free ( used with Turbo )
13 black - yellow / power source for the fresh air blower
14 red / source from alternator 30 or B+

In the wire schematic this connector is named T15. On the body from the
connectors are the little numbers stamped in, if not the 1 is at the end
with the code nose.


T 14 2.7 (74)

1 yellow / starter 50
2 green / only used with sportomatic runs behind the instrument for the overheat idiot light
3 green - black / Oiltemperature Instrument
4 green - red / Oiltpressure Instrument
5 green - yellow ( depends on year ) / from ign. to backuplightswitch
6 gray - black ( depends on year ) / backuplightswitch to lights
7
8
9 black - purple / to tach
10
11 blue / alternator control light 61 ( or D+ )
12 brown / to Regulator D-
13 black / to Regulator DF
14 red / source from alternator 30 or B+


brown - white / Sportomatic power source
blue - yellow / Sportomatic shift lever contact
yellow - black / Fresh air blower

red - white / to CIS and fuelpumprelay

[dezzmo]

Moe,

It looks like len911 and PJ already gave you some good info to get you going but you should have contacted me earlier since you know I also did a 3.2 swap.

Anyway, if you get stuck call me at 401-952-3968 and we'll chat

[artisticent]

2.7 motor, starter is on the fritz. Changed starter=same problem. Checked and cleaned all ground straps=same problem. Starter seems to work at first but after a long drive it wont even turn over. There are supposed to be 2 yellow wires going to the starter but I have only had one. Could this be loose or faulty?

Thanks
Nathan

[len911]

Nathan, the yellow wire energizes the starter from the ignition switch. It closes the circuit using low amperage to the solenoid, thus closing it. Once closed, internal contacts give full amperage and power directly from the battery to it via internal contacts. You need a lot of juice to crank the engine.

The yellow wire is on the connector pin 1. Unplug it and check for voltage there while switch is on start position. You should have 12V, while key is on crank position.

Check you battery + connector. Make sure it is tight since all power to starter flows directly from batt after solenoid closes.

Second yellow wire on starter is used to power some of the FI enrichment add ons. I think it actually powers the 7th injector used during starting. Some cars don't use the 2nd wire...

Hope this helps... Lou

[Walter_Middie]

Nathan,

It sounds like you have a bad connection or a bad wire somewhere. Here is an easy way to check where your problem is. Like most diagnosis, it is just a logical approach, one component at a time:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_starter_diag/mult_starter_diag.htm


Len911 - Thanks, now I too will be saving this info.