Is it supposed to move this freely?

FenderGuy · 03:19 PM

Ok I got my oil pressure sender in the mail, thinking maybe I could change it myself. After all it looks easy, yeah right, I was finding it hard to nudge it, so in the process the oil pressure sender block is moving freely...

in the first photo above the arrows point in which direction the old sender moves freely

This second photo is a which way does the sender turn to take it off? i tried both ways but stopped since the free mvoing block was freaking me out into thinking I might break it.....

so did i screw anything up?

masraum · 03-27-2007, 03:21 PM

The sender turns counter clock wise to come off.

I managed to use an SAE sized crowsfoot to get mine off. Someone, maybe JW posted that in worst case scenario you can break or strip something and recommends removing the block that the sender is screwed into.

So, the deal is risk breaking something but don't have to take everything apart

or

Have to take everything apart (time consuming pain in the butt, but don't have as much chance of causing serious problems.

I think it may have been a 1 1/16 crowsfoot, but I can't remember for sure. I'll check when I get home. It's something like .01875" smaller than the metric equivalent which means it fits with no slop like most wrenches.

masraum · 03-27-2007, 03:22 PM

PS Yes, it is REALLY stiff to get loose initially, then when it breaks free you'll be able to unscrew it with your fingers.

FenderGuy · 03-27-2007, 03:34 PM

Steve

Thanks but I am more worried about this

by it moving freely I mean I am able to mobe the sender up and down , it felt tight before. As you can see in the both photos the sender is in differnet postions

randywebb · 03-27-2007, 03:42 PM

pull the block & all - then clamp it in a vice and remove the sender

only a rare wizard can get it out w/ a crowsfoot! my homage, sir!

search up the old threads on this for other tips and many curses directed at the design

john walker's workshop · 03-27-2007, 03:44 PM

remove the cam line from the fitting that goes through the block, then finish removing the sender and block as a unit. clamp the block in a vise and crack loose the sender. install the sender and block tightly onto the case in the proper position (but don't get carried away and rip the threads out of the engine case), then reinstall the cam line. the block should not turn when you do this or it will leak.

FenderGuy · 03-27-2007, 04:03 PM

Ok do I remove it from this point?

Walter_Middie · Walter_Middie's Garage

No not there. Undo the oil line from the bright smaller nut just to the right of the arrow in the picture. Hold the bigger one that you have the arrow on, and turn the smaller one.

FenderGuy · 03-27-2007, 04:24 PM

Rex

Yeah I just took the whole cam lne off, it was easy. Ok now to take the block and the sender off. The washer looks a little beat up can I re-use, since I did not order a new sender

FenderGuy · 03-27-2007, 05:37 PM

Thank you to the board and to John Walker your information is much appericated to a newbie like me when it comes to fixing my car.

New sender in its place

When started up the druck pressure was at 4? Is this normal I though it would start out at the bottom?

letting the car warm up even more dropped the druck down to 3...

a little more warmed up the druck is at 2. I checked the oil dipstick and it was around the min mark, checked underneath the car and there was a oil puddle from taking off the sender block, I guess I didnt cap it right

I was going to drive it around but with the oil at the min mark I wanted to see what the board thought...also any insights on the druck pressure going from high to low ???

Jascha · 06:17 PM

All things being equal the oil pressure is a function of RPM and viscosity (Pressure = pump flow x resistance) and as you know a cold engine has a rather viscous oil. What you are showing is fairly normal for idle conditions as the engine warms up. The important observation to make is to see what happens when you rev the engine during normal driving conditions -should stay in the 3-4+ zone while at cruising speed (rpm ~ 3K) …

Walter_Middie · Walter_Middie's Garage

So in simple terms, what Jascha is trying to say is that when the oil is cold, it is really thick, and you will see a lot of oil pressure. As the oil gets warm, it thins out and your pressure will drop. It will also drop with engine RPM, so at idle with a warm car, you may have the least oil pressure (one reason it is so hard on your car to let it idle for long periods). As you rev up your engine, the oil pressure will increase. You want good pressure at cruise RPM and warm oil.

Quote:

there was a oil puddle from taking off the sender block

Does this mean it is still leaking? I think there is supposed to be a crushable washer between the connector block and the engine. I can't see from your pictures if you have that. A crushable washer will seal between two metal surfaces as you tighten them together. Any auto parts store will have them.

Best of Luck.

FenderGuy · 03-27-2007, 08:50 PM

No the puddle is from taking the connector block off to take the old sender off, I didnt cap it right. I did see the washers on both sides of the connector block and put them back as they were. Eeveything is fine on I just didn't like the dipstick level being at the lower end around the min mark after it warmed up. Its good to see the druck pressure working though