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No. We have run into some suspension issues. We are going to have to make some necessary modifications, which will take about 3 weeks. I will however, be able to drive the car in the interim. I pick her up tonight.
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Why so secretive? What is the nature of the suspension issuse(s)?
As you know I'm doing a similar set up on my car and I'd like to avoid any pitfalls, if I can. |
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Jeff,
I'll buy your greasy breakfast next week, so consider yourself bought - spill it. |
I'll buy you a bottle of your favorite Irish Whiskey to go along with Jamie's generous greasy breakfast offer. Spill it.
No holding out either. I have Bernie's number and I'm not afraid to use it! |
Just curious, what happened? I hope Island doesn't step in and say I told you so. That would be a shame, given his relentless hammering on the suspension choices.
If a mistake was made, let's share the info so others don't fall victim to the same issue. Do the shocks need revalving / rebuilding? Either way, I wish you the best in resolving. Doug |
I am not trying to keep anything a secret, just haven't had time for the write-up.
The suspension problem has nothing to do with torsion bars, so we can ignore that debate for the time being. The problem is with the front struts. I think there are a lot of cars out there with the same problem. I want my car at a certain height, but the shocks don't have enough travel, so I am riding on the rubber stoppers. I need at least 2" of travel, but I only have 3/4". The answer is to install raised spindles. I cannot have my struts (Koni) raised enough for my 2" travel (can only get 19mm), so I am likely going to switch my suspension to Bilstein and have my spindles raised by Clint, giving me more than enough travel. Alternative is to run Smart Racing RSR type raised spindles. I am looking at another alternative at the moment, but won't disclose that just yet. I did my research before this project, but was not prepared for my research subjects to be incomplete or even wrong. Given my discussions with many well-known suspension experts, it sounds like there are a lot of people potentially running their cars without enough suspension travel. |
Jeff,
Since you were too slow on the come back, Scooter gets your breakfast. |
Good move. Clint is a great resource.
I raised my Bilstein front struts 30mm to regain the travel, but I have 17" Lindsey wheels. good luck, Doug |
Scooter,
You’re right, I had the same problem and ran that way for a while without knowing it. The Koni’s are a little longer than Bilstein’s in both the front and back. Switching from Koni to Bilstein with raised spindles solved most of the problem for me. I still needed to raise the car back up a little. Clint will do a good job on your struts. Ira |
Scooter,
How did you measure your suspension travel? Is that why you ran the struts/shocks without the dust covers? |
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Wow Scooter, you didn't waste any time jumping into this one. Very nice!
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Not running the front dust covers helps with determining the travel. Basically, you attach a zip tie to the shaft and bounce the car up and down and see where the zip tie ends up. My zip tie ends up 3/4 of an inch away from the rubber bumpers. I should be 2" from the rubber bumpers.
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Oh, going to pick the car up now. :D
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My bouncing is different than say, Lori's bouncing. I would think driving it would be a better test, especially out where his shop is. They've not paved the golf course road out there since before Higgins was born. :D |
Bouncing it up and down gives you a sense of how much travel is used on smooth roads, then you look to see how much travel is left for the bigger bumps. I can tell you that 3/4" is definitely not enough.
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Hm............Bouncing a new strut or shock will not get maximum travel.
It's too stiff unless you weigh 500 plus lbs. I remember checking the travel on my gas-pressured Bilsteins like this: Before installing, measure from center mounting hole on the bottom to the top of the shock tower. Then compress the shock completely and tie it compressed. Measure and compare. That'll indicate how much travel you have. I ended up cutting off 2/3 of the snubbers. A lot of people are driving around way too low bottoming out and wondering where that "Park-bench feeling" comes from. Raised spindles is the optimum way to go for people with money; I am just a poor pensioner. |
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Can't wait to see her Scott. Say, does your drivers seat move fore and aft at all? Like, way aft? ;) |
I'm going with Bernie on his method of checking to see if there is enough travel. I trust his judgment and expertise. We also talked about cutting the rubber bumpers, but was advised that the two bumpers are there to protect the shock from blowing out. If you go less than two then there is no protection from over-compression. This, of course, if for Koni shocks. I also considered Snubbers (a Koni product), but that is probably only a temporary solution. Raised spindles cost between $250 and $300, so I don't think it is too expensive of a proposition.
I just talked to Clint on the phone. What a great guy, very informed. I am now looking for '78 or newer Bilstein strut housings. :) |
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Just how low are you going in the front? |
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Like Scooter, I am currently running Konis. I'm not sure I'm up for changing to Bilsteins with raised spindles and re-valved inserts right now, being in the middle of building my 3.0 and all. They may be in my future after I'm done with that. For now, however, the car's handling speaks for itself. Too many experienced drivers have gotten out of it very impressed with it for it to be actually riding on the stops or anything. Maybe it's just so damn stiff that I'm not even using the up travel it has available. Maybe Scooter's is, too. At least until Drago gets in it... |
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