Head studs broken!!!

[shoguneagle]

purchased an engine with 125,000 miles (1987 3.2 Carrera) with 180s' compression in all cylinders; 3% leakdown cold; has history documented but not all of it is there; etc.

Started doing the engine re-seal, and valve adjustment when found two broken studs (same side and on the same #5 intake side of the cylinder), Both studs were laying in the valve cover and left some corrosion stains on the cover.

I am going to change the broken studs along with any others that I deem necessary, i.e. type, breakage/corrosion evidence, etc.

Need advice concerning any damage to cylinder, problems with two studs breaking on the same side of the same cylinder, problems that can happen to stud removal, etc. Both are broken off behind the nut at the top of the cylinder.

Should I consider any head, valve, guide repairs?

How can an engine have very good compression and leakdown figures with two broken studs on one cylinder?

What type of damage could have been done to the cylinder and head having the broken studs?

I want to replace any and all cylinder head studs on both bank and get the engine into the car for detailed valuation and performance. I do not race, but drive spiritedly on the highway.

I have read over twenty threads regarding broken studs, damage, etc. on this board. I just need some comments to make sure I am on the right track.

Thanks,
Steve Hurt

[88-diamondblue]

Steve,

If the car was not using oil then just replacing all the lower studs with steel will take care of the getting rid of the dilivar time bombs. You have to take the heads off to do this. It would be a great time to have a valve job. The valve job will cost around $400 plus parts and up to $1000 + depending on who you use for that. If you know your oil consumption was good then just seals and studs should cover it. Had one break on each side of my 88. I ended up doing a full rebuild with many of the "while you are in there mods"

[Gunter]

+1
The big unknown is:
Was the top of that cylinder slightly hammered?
And, what type P/C's are in there?
You don't know until the tear-down.
If you have KS (Alusil) P/C's, you have a choice to make; do a search on this issue.
It is possible to remove the P/C's together so the rings don't get disturbed but it is tricky to get the wrist pin clips out.
If you are lucky, you'll have Mahle (Nikasil) P/C's: great for slight cross-hatching and re-ringing.

[shoguneagle]

Thanks for your replies. I just purchased the engine for conversion purposes so I do not know what the engine performance is except for the leak down and compression tests.

I am assuming the worse case will be complete head workup (valves, seats, guides, seals, etc) along with new head and exhaust studs. This should get me down the line to complete the project conversion and still run. I am a firm believer is leaving things alone except when needed under preventive maintenance practices. In other words, I will be in the complete overhaul soon enough but right now I had better keep my hands out of the engine until it is required (nothing else majorf to do on the project).

Hopefully, there is not any damage and just the studs will take care of thesituation. The mileage tells me it could need complete head work etc., but we will see when we open her up.

Thanks again.

Steve Hurt