So Much Smoke!!!!!!

[favrok01]

Just put another engine in my car 3.0.
started right up in the beginning and is getting harder to start.
smoke just pours out the back (it is white) smells strongly of gas.
how do i turn the gas flow down a bit?

how do i tune this so it doesn't hesitate in the beginning of throttle?

[dweymer]

sounds like the mix is off.

look for Souk, he has a thread in his sig that may help

[aigel]

It would help to know:

What fuel system? CIS?
Did you keep your old fuel system or install what came with the engine?

George

[favrok01]

I used the same CIS.

spoke to a friend and he said it could be since the engine has sat a while it is the "crud" that has gotten into the cylenders and is burning out.

ran smooth for 10 min is starting to run rough and with hand in front of tail pipe feels like at least one guy is not running well

[favrok01]

I used the same CIS that came with the engine. Why?

[Gunter]

Could be many different things.
Mixture needs to be adjusted for sure but...........
is the WUR getting 12V and working?
is the AAR working?
CSV connection not mistakenly mixed up with the Airflow Sensor Switch?

Mixture adjust is the last thing on a tune-up.

Assuming that the valves are set, cam timing is good, plugs & wires are good, ignition harness installed for correct firing order, ignition timing set at 5deg BTDC? injectors showing good spray?

To set a leaner mixture, use a long 3mm Allen and turn the adjust screw a little ccw.
Careful! Just a little!
If the mixture cannot be set, suspect a leaking injector or leaking CSV.
Also, vacuum leaks will screw up the setting.

Do you have another Pelicanite that could help you?

[favrok01]

unfortunately everyone has just enough knowledge for assembly and a little fab. when it comes to tuning none of the people i know are professionals

[favrok01]

ok ran it a while yesterday smoke not so bad now but it has changed color to a darker hugh.

that is running rich right?
not so bad just let it break in for about a hundred miles or so right?

[MotoSook]

Is this a rebuilt engine or a used engine that was swapped in?

If it is a rebuilt engine, you do not want it to run rich (from what you are describing). If the engine ran well then stored, then you put it in a car...then you just need to burn the oil off. Watch it carefully to be sure it is not burning oil for some other reason!

In either case, you should adjust the mixture. Your description of rough idle when warm and dark smoke points toward rich running, but you haven't provided anymore (better) information for anyone to post with any certainty what is going on with that engine.

Give us more information and we will help.

[Early_S_Man]

I doubt if massive smoke is an adjustment problem.

Check a few things to make see if the extra richness is being added by a fault not related to any adjustments ...

1. Test Cold-Start Valve to see if stuck open, and Thermo-Time Switch to see if shorted across the contacts.

2. Pull all six injectors [leave attached to lines] and test for leakage and spray pattern ... into a pint fruit jar.

[favrok01]

well the last 2 post are awesome but i hate to say it but everything is at a pause. it seems all the driving and testing was done off of battery power alone. the alternator was not charging. it seems the person had attached the ground wire to one of the posts instead of the outside.

i replaced with one of my alternators and noticed the temperature gage is all the way in red don't know why it would do that it goes down when i disconnect the battery. where is the temperature gage?

am charging battery to test again

[bigchillcar]

i'm tempted to say drive it like you stole it for a while and see if it works itself out..

on the other hand, how long did it sit up before the install? could be a fouled plug. i'd check plug conditions before i adjust the mixture without availability of a co gas analyzer. you can easily check for vacuum leaks if the idle hunts at all by spraying brake cleaner around the intake area and listen for an increase in idle to confirm a leak. don't know what model car you have, but i'd try looking for a temp sender that could have gotten disconnected partially when you replaced alternators just to the lower right of the fan.

[favrok01]

well..............
got the other alternator in, electrical is doing something else fishy now.
the car starts then revs normal for 12 seconds then up 3 thousand rpm then stops. i notice as its stopped that the fuel pump isn't running.
if i turn the key back then back to start i hear the fuel pump start again.

then i could do this whole process again if i wanted.

[favrok01]

i just got home and tried cranking it again with the same results.
the fuel pump stops after it is cranked what could cause this?

[Early_S_Man]

Unplug the Airflow Sensor Contact connector ... if switch is shorted/defective ... it would cause your symptoms!

[favrok01]

ok where is it what does it look like?
just becouse i can swap a engine doesnt mean i'm smart

[favrok01]

if its the connection behind the bean i disconnected it with no difference

[Early_S_Man]

behind the bean???

Here it is, and you will need to insulate [wrap with tape] the Faston connectors you remove:

[favrok01]

it was the fuel relay guys i replaced it with a blck one and the car runs again.

the temperature gage is working again.

now to the five hundred pounds of smoke.

i will check all the injectors then check all spark plugs to make sure all cyls have spark.

where is the thermotime switch?

[Early_S_Man]

Congrats!

Thermotime Switch is on left chain cover, here: