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Questions on installing Ruf/CTR front and rear fiberglass bumbers?
Is there anyone out there that has installed the fiberglass Ruf CTR aftermarket front valance/bumper and rear CTR/IROC bumper that is sold by companies like Betterbodies, GT racing etc that you find in Excellence? I believe the bumper shocks have to be removed as well as a cross plate fabricated both in front and rear so new fiberglass bumpers will install. Is there a fitting issue after stock bumper shocks are removed? any info would be helpful since i am considering the change over. i have a wide body.
thanks in advance antares |
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Driving member
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Antares,
I just installed an Iroc style rear bumper recently. I did have to remove the bumper shocks. The only fitting issue is your dealing with fiberglass so it will take some work to make things line up properly. Do not expect the panels to line up as it would with steel factory pieces. I have not done the front bumper yet but I am going to the Ruf style as well.
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Jester: thanks for the info. with the removal of the shocks don't you lose the bolts and plate that is attached to the ends of the shocks which in turn is used to bolt up the OEM bumper. seems to me if one removes the bumper shocks one would have to attach a plate to the frame somehow with bolts attached so one could install new fiberglass bumpers. i suppose one could attach a plate connecting the two in order to give the fiberglass bumper a little more stability and backing. that brings up the issue of if one removes the shocks and someone bumps into your front or rear bumper even in a parking lot i wonder what damage to the frame could occur. your thoughts?
antares fatnwide |
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The Unsettler
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 518
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I recently installed a rear bumper from Rennspeed. It comes with studs set into the fiberglass inside the bumper. These studs are designed to line up with the bumper shocks. I "just" drilled out the bumper shock bolts, enlarging the holes enough to offer a little play and bolted up the bumper to the shock plate, whcih now has holes instead of protruding bolts. This required a great deal of time, back and forth, shaving down the bumper shock in order to allow the nut to tighhten down, etc. Then, leaving the shock loosely attached to the bumper, fit the bumper to car. I had to remove all rubber bushing and rubber spacers etc. in order to get the bumper far enough forward to line up to the fender arches. And again, it takes some time to get the bumper shocks into their respective holes. I did not reuse the semicircle bumper shock clamp pieces as the angle of bumper shock would not allow it. Since we are talking about a 5-10lb piece to hold I wasn't worried. Then snug down the shock to the car and the shock to the bumper going slowly all around to firm things up. And remember, it's fiberglass and can be brittle.
THEN, use whatever means you need to line up the bumper with the fender arches and use whatever mounting point that will work, between the long arm, the short arm and the holes at the seam you should be able to find a couple that will work. So you drill some more, get some hardware that works and make it fit. THEN, once it is all fitted up and you are proud of yourself, as it only took 4-6 hours(!), you can take it all apart and send it to the paintshop. Trust me, you will, for a moment, wonder if you can get away with not painting the bumper! So off it comes, then paint then reinstall. Fortunately the second time, the intallation goes much quicker, but now you are working with a freshly painted piece of fiberglass and have new cautions, etc. Unfortunately, I have no photos or anything more to help you, but trust me, if I can do it anyone can. Just take your time and don't do anything stupid. Good luck. |
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